Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.
2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.
Did this route 3 or 4 years ago. It was my hardest trad lead at the time. I was scared out of my mind. I thought it was definitely R rated, but I was probably just a pansy. I remember getting 3 or 4 pieces in the flaring flake thing (made me mentally happy) before committing to the moves above. The chickenhead part is pretty fun, though. Good times.
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Apr 16, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
I'm not sure where a 2" cam would fit in the cling. Seems like .3, .4 or .5 placements are there and solid. The chickenhead mantel is full value LCC goodness. Blowing it would suck. A lot. Another mantel lurks above and might have you questioning why you're leading this one...