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Chicken Ranch Bingo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Grant Hiskes, 1993
Page Views: 2,074
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Apr 19, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Yeeee Haaaa! Goin to the Chicken Ranch! For Bingo! Named for a couple of reasons, for the Bingo place that's nearby, and also for the excellent slippery feeling you'll get hitting some of the upper holds in the Summer and Fall. Never mind the stink.

This is the rightmost climb in The Grotto, and is the only route that starts outside of the Grotto on the right side. Before the Class 3 downclimb into the Grotto, look for the bolts of Chicken Ranch Bingo above the columns. Climb up the columns to a traverse move accross the top of the columns. It's a ways to the first bolt, but climbing is probably only 5.6 until a 5.8 move right before the first bolt. Head up for a while on overhung but excellent holds. Continue softly right, and then Softly left for a balancy traversy section right before the top anchors. Climbing is solid 5.10b once you get past the columns until the top anchors.

Lowering directly into the pit below requires a 60 meter rope,, so lower wisely with shorter ropes.


Protection 

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Sidewinder (5.11d). 2 of the bolts are manky 1/4", so it's more like 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring slings for the first bolt (or skip it), and the fourth bolts, where the climb makes a right turn.



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Chicken Ranch Bingo
Chicken Ranch Bingo
Climbing Chicken Ranch Bingo at the Grotto on 6/1/2013
Climbing Chicken Ranch Bingo at the Grotto on 6/1/...
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 18, 2007

I would definitely not give this route 4 stars, although it was fun. It goes through the white streak, which is all bat shit. Yes, you are climbing through bat shit so be sure to wash your hands when you're done, especially if you're going to eat something. Also, some of the bolts on this climb looked pretty questionable. One was totally hopeless, by you don't have to clip it. The anchor bolts also looked fairly rusty.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is the BEST bolted line I've tried in the Grotto area (incl. Ort Wall, Welcome Wall, Eastern Front) after AC Devil Dog, although I've mostly done the cracks. Decently long, really fun movement, good rock. Don't let the comments dissuade you; I noticed no crap on the rocks, and both of the two rusty bolts have good new bolts nearby, so it's safe. Pretty runout to the first bolt, but easy. If you think there's ANY possibility of you falling down low, you should anchor your belayer in, since the belay ledge is perched above the lower Grotto.

By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 3, 2013

Wash your hands after climbing this. Spring 2013 and the holds up high were covered in bat shit.

By bmdhacks
Jun 3, 2013

such a fun climb to be kinda ruined by the disgusting magnitude of shit smeared all over it

By Luke.V
Jun 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Agree with the bat shit all over the place. Be careful for when its "misting" bat piss as well. This was more prevalent at the welcome wall.

This climb was overall fun. Definitely use a sling for the 4th bolt to minimize rope drag and there are a couple holds that are a bit loose (likely safe but you can tell that they're wedged in, not connected to the rock).

Favorite route in the grotto because it was a relatively easy climb that got you very high (over 130 ft) off the ground. To get to the first bolt I'd also set up a sling if you aren't confident you can get to it because you climb out over an area that drops off significantly.