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Crack L of Cockeyed T 
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Chicken Out 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradshaw
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Tamara walking through the increasingly steep face...

Description 

This fun climb begins with a short slab that leads to a big-ish roof, and finishes with a so-so dihedral. Begin in a broad corner, passing a seemingly unnecessary bolt to a good stance below the roof. Clip up high and left, then ascend directly over the roof (perhaps just a bit rightwards) on killer-good jugs and maybe a heel-hook.

Ascend the arete left of the dihedral for a few bolts before veering right into the ever-steepening dihedral. Dwindling holds and a building pump lead to the anchor.

Location 

Immediately right of Stunt Cock, immediately left of Cock a Doodle Do.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 quick-link BA


Photos of Chicken Out Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck sending one of cockscomb's great 5.10s
Chuck sending one of cockscomb's great 5.10s

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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This, and Chicks with Ricks, were in my opinion the best of their grade at the Cockscomb crag. With all the crimping and side pulling, these two routes offer some diversity in movement.

Watch the crux at the top, it's certainly a thinker.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 27, 2008

Well Anthony I'd love to see your beta for the top some day.... I guess we figured it out, but hey maybe you have a better plan than I!

A great route and well worth the hike.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sorry Robbin... Wish I could help you but that was like, two months ago! Much to long ago for me to remember the moves!
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 5, 2008

Well I must admit that figuring it out for myself will be a more beneficial experience in the long run anyway. Happy climbing!