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Unsorted Routes:

Chicken of the Sea 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Chicken of the Sea: from the right leaning cracks ...

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Description 

Climb the face up to the hanging corner (which Trotsky follows), and break left up the steep, juggy flake ladder. Pull up on to the slab(the guidebook called this the crux, but I though the steep climbing was harder, if more secure)and follow the small, left facing corner to a ledge and a gear anchor. Alternatively, traverse right from the ledge and belay from the slings at the top of Trotsky's Corner.


Location 

The steep face before the stone stairs on the right end of the precipice. Just left of Trotsky's Corner.


Protection 

Standard rack.

The first twenty feet doesn't have that much gear, but you can get a bomber #7-8 nut in a fingerlock slot about twelve feet up. Other than that, finger sized cams work great behind the flakes.



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Top portion of Chicken by the Sea

BETA PHOTO: Top portion of Chicken by the Sea


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.9-

The correct route name is "Chicken OF the Sea". Gear is sufficient after the initial 15 feet, and remember to steer right into the final 5 feet of "Trotsky" at the top, otherwise you will be greeted by a heinous, grassy mantle.

By Andrew Mertens
From: Hanover, NH
Mar 28, 2013

Fixed, thanks!