Login with Facebook
Ken Black Memorial Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackheart T 
Blackjack S 
Blackout T 
Chicken Mechanics T 
Fryer Flyers T 
Holiday In The Sun T 
Lewis Black  T 
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 
Pitch Black T 
Poultry Pilots T 

Chicken Mechanics 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Sillasen and Todd Gordon, May 1986
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Chicken Mechanics". Photo by Blitzo.


This route has a fun crux overhang with a clean finger crack above.


to the right of the center of the formation


standard rack

Comments on Chicken Mechanics Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 9, 2010

Starts in an alcove with a shoddy looking mini roof about 10 feet up. Awkward moves over this rooflet lead to quasi ok rock and a left leaning hand crack. Somewhere in there you will pass a Nolina (thanks Todd) that is determined to poke you in the neck. Follow the poor to fair rock up and left on easy ground. Now you have a dilemma. Continue up the loose and grainy crack to the real summit, jump from here and cut your losses, or go up the 3 bolt face Pacific Ave Dorm, which is pretty good. No bolts on top. Anchor takes 3" pro. Down climb and scramble off the summit over the back and then to climbers right. One star is generous.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 9, 2010

I agree with Russ;....when we did the first ascent of this pile, I was not all that impressed myself. I has a few good qualities;...it is rock climbing, and it is fun....that's about all I have to say about this one...It had a big all spiny nolina growing in it too.....and the roof;...well;..the roof is all of 10" big...is that a roof?....
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 10, 2010

Roof? yeah I'd still call that a roof. Getting to the roof was somewhat complicated particularly when the leader pros to the left. Some down climbing, quiet prayers and extreme skill-set can put you on course for a few pretty fun moves.

The rock quality was so-so but overall I pseudo liked the route and would do it again. That said, I rapped from the top and my partner did the walk off. Where exactly is the anchor fairy these days?

No complaints about the approach or aspect, both were perfect for late afternoons in the summer...thanks Todd.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!