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Cocaine Gully
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Chicken McNuggets 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane 3/91
Page Views: 2,056
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Rapping Chicken McNuggets as the sun sets

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If I didn't have a couple of nubbins pop on me while climbing this route I might give it 4 stars. It's a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing. It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins.

This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully. Be careful not to knock rocks and pebbles down into the hole at the belay area; people crawling up through the tunnel don't like being rained on.

Protection 

9 bolts and a bolted anchor. A stick clip is handy for protecting the bouldery bottom section before gaining the main face.


Photos of Chicken McNuggets Slideshow Add Photo
past the Chicken McNuggets crux, cruising the delicate knobs and 'heads
past the Chicken McNuggets crux, cruising the deli...
Vomit Launch on the left, Chicken McNuggets on the right
BETA PHOTO: Vomit Launch on the left, Chicken McNuggets on the...

Comments on Chicken McNuggets Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007

Good climb. Hard reachy move at the start leads to a fun slab and an even better upper section leading to the anchors.
By grizz
May 12, 2008

Very fun climb. I didn't encounter a single suspect nubbin. Everything felt very solid. The initial moves to the first bolt are challenging with a seriously bad fall potential but the clipping holds are good.
By David Wade
Dec 1, 2008

First bolt isn't all that hard, although I agree the fall would be v. ugly. The second bolt, though...it sure seemed desperate to me! Watts says left hand in the crack, but I was on the face. One bomber hold at the bolt, and you're golden.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 15, 2010

The starting moves past the first bolt felt considerably harder than 10b.... at least to me.

Great nubbin fondling though!
By another Chad
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm usually the guy quietly snickering about the use of sticks clips. Getting on Chicken McNuggets was the first and so far only time that I've used a stick (and some tape) to clip a first bolt. A fall from the beginning of Barbecue The Pope seems tame in comparison.


Chad