One of the better and more mental routes on the wall to lead within reason. THe crux move is well protected but the rest is not. As well, the moves are unique and fun. The short length of this rotue keeps it from getting more stars.
On the SW face, find the left-most thin crack/seam before the chimney (3-4M further left) and climb in from the right of the bottom of it. Gain a decent stance and Protect before climbing through to its left side. Continue up the seam to the right hand edge of a horizontal seam/flake (poor pro here if you want it, maybe a so-so piece if you tinker for a while) and then up the lower angle face to the top.
This route does not protect well for a good amount of it's distance. Take a rack of nuts and a few aliens and maybe a set of ball nuts if you want to tinker a lot. Otherwise, place the good gear where the gear is good and run for it. The crux at 5M protects well with a small-ish stopper that is placed a/2 blind. (The large BD copper steel I got was VERY good) and up top the gear is poor, but the climbing much easier. If you fell from the top, the pro would probably blow the fragile flakes and you could potentially deck out (17M). The good gear is too low to come tight. The route certainly deserves and S.This can be TR'd from trad gead in a crack above + long webbing.
Darlene can relax now.
BETA PHOTO: "Chicken Lizard".
Photo by Blitzo.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 25, 2004
I thought this route was fun. If it was longer, I'd possibly give it a star. I agree that it is 10b, and is runout.
Jan 8, 2008
I thought this route led harder than Anacram (10c). It's harder than any 10b I've done so far. Waugh crack is also hard to lead because the gear takes up the jam at few spots but I found Chicken Lizard crux move still harder. Unless a hold broke? Or I just didn't see the move.