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Delusional scenarios of the sky falling are even less probable than climbers plummeting from this fun warm-up climb. This route begins below a few small roofs located just left of a prominent, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Work past the small roofs to a seam, then step right at its top to beautiful stone leading to a steep, final right-facing weakness, then to the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)
Variation: The prominent, right-facing corner capped by the roof mentioned above has also been lead, and joins the line at half-height (5.8, pro to 3”).
Upper left end of the wall.
|Comments on Chicken Little
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Oct 25, 2011
Wow, Joe, it's hard to believe we were climbing the same route! Glad you had such a good experience on it. Maybe I'll have to take another look sometime.
I think part of my animosity stems from an expectation that a 5.8 sport route would be a relative cruise, but this route was insecure and awkward the whole way, especially up high. Felt more like 5.10 to me and caught me by surprise-I thought seriously about grabbing a draw up there!
|By greg k|
Oct 25, 2011
Charles, I think Joe got this one right, really an overlooked/undiscovered/intentionally ignored/unintentionally unobserved classic with heads up climbing at the start and finish. You're right about the rating though, this ain't no grandma's climb (oops, sorry Emily)