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Just left of Reptillian Wall lies this largely forgetable combination crack-face climb. The bottom half is an easy, pleasant scamper up a flake and crack system. After that, it's a steep friction climb on crystals for 15' to the rounded top of the block. Set an anchor in a narrow horizontal crack or sling the boulder above. Walk off to climber's left. Left and right variations are available. The left looks slightly easier than the right (5.8?).
Follow the trail to the extreme left edge of the Leftovers (stale Leftovers?). Climb is left of Captain Fist and Prime Rib on the same buttress as Reptillian Wall.
Lots of protection on the lower half (though you won't need it), nothing on the top.
Apr 26, 2007
Ahhh.. so that's the deal with this climb. I thought the wide crack was Chicken Legs. I started on top of this climb on the ledge and left a little bit and did what I thought was supposed to be a 5.8 crack and the second pitch to this, but it certainly was not 5.8. Maybe one move of 5.6 or 5.7 and the rest was really easy, with an easy walk off up top.
|By Buff Johnson|
Apr 26, 2007
UH??, there's a reason why Chicken Legs is called as such -- this climb & Reptilian continue past the first block for better second pitches & also to achieve their respective technical ratings (Andrew, I think you did the proper 2nd pitch to Reptilian. Chicken Legs is a variant that has an erosion feature that looks like, guess what, a couple of chicken legs). Both should be walk-offs if I remember correctly.
One thing that is really wild is these routes offer a unique vantage looking at the burned vs unburned ridgelines and draws; like some oases in the desert, really unexpected.