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Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
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Baby Cakes 
Better Red Than Dead 
Bienvenidos 
Black Streak 
Chicken Heads 
Chicken Shit 
Clean Green Dream 
Cryin' in the Rain 
Dirty Black Nightmare 
Dirty Diagonal 
Dung Alley 
Five Years After 
Fried Chickens 
Holthouse to Hell 
Mama Jugs 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 
Rite of Summer Dreams 
Seaman Girl 
Serpent Face 
Serpentine Crack 
Summer Dreams 
Suprise-Suprise 
Techtonics 
Techweenie 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 
Walking Dread 

Chicken Heads 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,314
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007
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Sarah enjoys Chicken Heads. June 2010.
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at the base of a right trending diagonal crack on a ledge 40 feet up the center of the wall. Follow the crack up and right, heading left and up where the crack turns left just before it ends.


Location 

Obtain the start ledge by climbing Chicken Shit (5.7). Walk off to the East (right).


Protection 

Standard trad rack (set of nuts and set of cams w/ extra slings). Belay from gear at the summit (large cams useful). 60m rope necessary to reach the summit from the ground in one pitch.



Photos of Chicken Heads Slideshow Add Photo
Mosaic Rock (center) from the top of South Rock.  Chicken Shit (5.7) ascends the green streak between the two trees to the start of Chicken Heads (5.7). The crack on the far right is Serpentine Crack (5.8).  Dirty Diagonal (5.7) is the obvious crack to the left of center.
BETA PHOTO: Mosaic Rock (center) from the top of South Rock. ...
It's obvious why the route is called "Chicken Heads".
It's obvious why the route is called "Chicken Head...
Comments on Chicken Heads Add Comment
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By Levi Wilner
From: Alamosa, CO
Apr 11, 2013

I'm pretty sure this route is bolted...

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

There are no bolts on this route. The common direct start, Chicken Shit, has a single bolt but after that it's gear in cracks and chickenhead-slingin' fun. You may be thinking of Five Years After, just to the left, which has a couple of bolts.