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As per Tod's guide this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. Can chase sun or shade. love the climbing here. the routes are amazing. would love to know the person that put them up.
15 to 20 minute hike.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chicken Head Ranch:
Beaks and Feet 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Bart's Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Mini-Splitter 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Extra Crispy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Mini-Slab 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Finger Lickin' Good 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 2 pitches
Wishbone Dihedral 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Fracture 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Yellow Dot 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
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