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Chicken Fingers 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Duemler
Season: april to october
Page Views: 1,268
Submitted By: bio on Apr 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this is the p...


Obvious dihedral on left portion of wall. split by thin crack, beautiful line on good rock. thin fingers and stemming. most of climb is 10+, crux is 5 feet of bouldery movement that you can aid through by using the bolt at the crux if necessary.


small to medium nuts. doubles cams smallest through .75 and singles #1 through #4. three bolts

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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 20, 2008

By coincidence I just learned the motorcyclers definition of chicken fingers the other day. When a bikes tires are worn in the middle, chicken fingers are the bits of tread that remain on the outside edges of the tire. FYI. Though by looking at the photo (nice line indeed) and the mention of aiding the crux, well...
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 4, 2008

I admit it, I didn't have chicken fingers nor talent enough, I pulled through the crux too!
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 12, 2010

I had to aid. Strong work by Lisa on the FFA. Proud line.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 10, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

good looking route, the moves are not so great, and undefined. Also there is easy but unprotected climbing on sandstone time bombs so if you are a heavier climber, probably should know how to do the two hand tap: (feel with one hand while the other taps)
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I personally found the movement enjoyable and the rock as solid as any of the sandstone in the canyon. The only fault I see is that the route is not sustained. The crux is substantially harder than the rest of the route.

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