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Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
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Babble On T 
Boneheads T 
Chicken Fever T 
Desperate Straights T 
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G-Man Extension (AKA Book'em, Dano) T,S 
Gilligan's Chicken T 
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 
Knob Job T 
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Nine Lives T,S 
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Sherrie's Crack T 
Skinheads S 
Suds T 
Super Slacker Highway, The T 
Trough of Justice T 
Tube, The T 
Underclingon S 
Unknown (5.8?) S 

Chicken Fever 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown, by 1987
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Osprey on Feb 2, 2010

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Description 

This is yet another good and challenging 5.10 that sees zero traffic. Look above Sherrie's Crack for a right facing corner to a roof with a knobby wall above. Entering the corner is tough and is followed by a crux finger tip move to get up through the bottom of the corner. The rooflet is an excellent hand crack and the knobby wall above is challenging to protect but yields pro if you climb it just slightly on the left side. Not an R-rated climb but somewhat heady for the leader.

This climb linked with Sherrie's Crack will leave you feeling like a champ for a day.


Location 

Starts just left and up from the bolted rappel at the top of Sherrie's Crack. You can walk/scramble off to the left, or rappel from slings around a tree at the top of the climb(recommended). Do this with one 60m rope by rapping twice - Once to the top of Sherrie's Crack and another rappel to the ground.


Protection 

If linking with Sherrie's, bring your rack for Sherrie's Crack and add a second set of gear to 2.5". Also bring slings for the knob tie offs above the roof. Alien Offsets may help yield pro above the roof in one or two spots. If climbing as a seperate pitch, bring a single set. There are normally slings around the tree at the top of the climb with rappel rings on them. But its best to bring an extra shoulder sling just in case you need to leave one.



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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Feb 3, 2010

Marc, thanks for description of this "obscure" route . Climbed Sherry crack many times and never looked at this side, never seen anybody there on Chicken. Have you climbed above to Pat and Jack Pinnacle via "Stinger" and "Stand and Quiver"?

By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 3, 2010

No I have not, and I don't know anyone who has either. I've looked around over there and they appear to be OK. Spring would be the best time to do it, with Wildcat Falls pumping.
I like to climb Walt Shipley routes, but sometimes I don't think he really knew how hard he's was pulling. If you do it, post it for sure. I would definitely like to know what you thought. There's so much out there that's excellent but rarely gets done.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The start on this one is a little tricky. Higher up there is some fun mixed techniques of jamming, stemming & flared chimneying. The route looks like it takes good pro until you are past the roof. If you don't want to be in semi-runout knob territory, it looks like it is a small step right to merge with the upper crack of P2 of Sherrie's Crack, which takes some small gear.

By Mark Melvin
Mar 13, 2014

No one does this route. There are lichens all over the place. Otherwise the route is really good, with creative moves. I didn't do it as described above because I have fat fingers. Instead of doing a tips pull, consider walking the feet up right, then super cool stemming, a lieback rib, and then onto the face. Really fun. Pro is good, even from the stem, with the smallest 3 or 4 aliens. Pro overall is one set tiny cams to 2". Rappel slings and ring on tree above or wall off to keep from sending rocks and sticks to everyone on Sherrie's Crack. Second half is easy. Since dirty and tricky, probably not a good route if you're beginner 5.10, even though rating is pretty true to grade.