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Ragged Edges Area
Routes Sorted
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Aikido Gun Boy T 
Bodiddly T 
Chicken Eruptus T 
Crooked Crack T 
Dense Dunce T 
Diplomatic Immunity T 
Dumptruck T 
Footloose T 
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 
Go Ahead and Jump T 
Go Ahead, Ok? T 
Kemosabe T 
Lethal Weapon T 
Midheight T 
Midnight T 
Nightman Cometh, The T 
Ok Ok Ok T 
Plan F T 
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 
Ragged Edges T 
Revoked T 
Sheep Trail T 
Theme Book T 
Tonto T 
Unsorted Routes:

Chicken Eruptus 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, Mamusia - Spring 1983
Page Views: 3,659
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Dean following the classic upper face on Chicken E...

Description 

This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!!

To descend either walk off to the west or rap Tonto with one rope (60 Meter).


Protection 

Standard Rack


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2014
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 3, 2005

Correction!! The route start's alot closer than 25ft right of Ragged edges. Try 5-10ft right.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

This may be the thinnest 10b I've ever climbed. Worlds harder than anything else at the grade here.
By Michael Allen
Jul 4, 2006

Amen Jeremy! And I didn't even lead it, just followed on TR. But if you take a look at who put it up, well, can you say "old school".
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Dec 30, 2006

placed old gold #2 camalot before moving right to 1st bolt. seemed solid?

fun line, more than 3 stars, imho.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I didn't think this was under rated. 10b. Big moves between great crimps. The gear is there, too, but often you are forced to do moves above your pro. Maybe scary, but I don't think it deserves an R rating. The Falcon guide gives it a PG rating.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A refreshing dose of reality after climbing in the vicinity of the Gallery!
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

One of the best single pitch climbs I have ever done..(and i've done alot.) Never really felt runout, except for the topout but thats 5.5

The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!!
By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I found this route to be quite nice, but felt it was definitely easier and less runout than Sheep Trail, fyi.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

finally got around to this today- really fun route with solid gear where it counts- there's one or two tricky placements, but nothing a solid .10 leader should be concerned with. do this and then Sheep Trail for a full value day out at the crag.

also, a 70m rope makes this pretty casual as you can make the tree at the top of Ragged Edges for the anchor rather than the gulley just below.
By cheifitj
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 4, 2011

I would remove the R rating and even the PG13 for the confident 5.10 leader. The crux areas are protected well and the gear is all available when you need it. Don't let the rating scare you off, this is a great long pitch of climbing.
By Pitty
From: Marbach
Apr 27, 2011

I personally don't see a 5.10 for that route, 5.9 would be ok for me too. But I like that style of climbing. Where is the Runout to give that Route the R ?
But very nice and smooth...
good protection possible.

On the right side of chicken is a route "Aikido" or similar called, 5.11d or so, here the R is missing in the guide, although from 1st to second bolt a deep grounder is possible and the crux move is to reach the second bolt!
Scary and death-fall possible!!!!!
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 2, 2011

Concerning the "R". If you read the description the "R" rating is explained.
I don't personally think it deserves an "R", however the guidebook I had at the time gave it one (well an "S" same same). As I remember there are a couple of spots that are, maybe, a tad runout...so in an effort to give people as much info as possible, I gave it an "R" and then explained it. I think with all of that (and now this) the Description and ratings should remain as is.

Cheers,

josh
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Very bold lead. I can see giving this an R rating. There is no pro from the second bolt up to the rest ledge, which is between 12-15 feet. Personally I don't like taking 30 foot lead falls... The feet are very positive, though, and the moves make sense. Just very bold. Seemed like a sport climb with difficult trad pro.

This climb really doesn't have any harder moves than .10b, although there is a mono finger hold between the first and second bolt. I haven't had an occasion to use a mono hold as my primary hold on any climb, so that was "interesting". Especially when you start to feel the mono finger start to pump out. The boldness of the route and sustained factor definitely makes it seem harder than .10b. I'm really glad I didn't fall. Although I did take at the second bolt to rest before trying the 12-15 feet of unprotectable face to the mantle and rest ledge. My partner who followed said the route was outstanding, but I had a hard time enjoying it due to the boldness of the lead.

I took a double rack to 2". I can't see leading 200 feet with a single rack, as per the Handren guide book. Don't forget, you need to build a gear anchor at the top. I only had 4 cams and nuts to choose from. Ended up using a #00 master cam as part of the gear anchor.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

@Nelson- I use a single rack on the route, you don't need any gear for the anchor (a 60m will reach the tree barely, but a 70m will comfortable). If you're onsighting, doubling up to 2" isn't a bad idea, but in reality, there's just not that much gear to be had on the pitch. What gear you get is quite good, and its all where it need to be.

If you dont want to do the upper portion of the route, you can traverse off right after the face climbing above the bolt- take a couple of big pieces and you can set a TR anchor for Akido Gun Boy (which is awesome).
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Mar 20, 2013

I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route. The first 30 feet are 5.6 or easier and the last 30+ feet are 5.6 or easier. There are only a few 5.10 moves and there are big crimps to rest on between the crux moves. 5.10b is about right for the crux moves (maybe easier if you're tall) but it's not sustained at all.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 17, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Dropped a line on this after work for a TR solo session. WOW. Awesome climbing and unlike a lot of the close-to-the-road cragging in the park, this is more the style of climbing you'll see in the canyons than in the Calico Hills. Engaging, technical climbing.
By Andrew Yasso
Jan 14, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Brought a single set of cams and nuts, placed where I needed to, ended up on top with half of my cams and nuts left. Don't see where you could ever put a double rack - but if you like the extra weight go for it.

Most people above are correct. PG13 at best in my opinion, all of the gear, when you get it, is really good. No moves harder than 5.10b and the rock quality is phenomenal. You get gear everywhere you need it.

I suppose it is bold, but I enjoy that so I found this climb quite nice.
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is a pin half way between the two bolts, I supplemented with a gray Mastercam, but not necessary.

The only run out part on this route is the end, in 5.4 territory. I brought double and had a lot of gear left over. I could have easily belayed at the tree, but since I had so much gear I used the hand sized horizontal which helped reduce a lot of rope drag.

Good route, but definately does not deserve a "R" rating, barely deserves a PG-13.

If you climb outside regularly on 5.10 then this will just be a fun-albeit thoughtful- route. If you are coming straight from the gym and are used to clipping every 3-4 feet then this will feel a bit run out, but unless you suck at placing gear then no part of this route should be considered dangerous.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Kevin Dahlstrom wrote:
I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route...

I think you missed out on the primary reason this route is so rewarding and good...leading it with its creative and intermittent gear. The rock quality and moves are way good but the real charm in the route comes when you lead it.