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Chicken Dance 
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Chicken Dance 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin, 8/12
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Zach Wahrer on Jan 7, 2014
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Fun and easy climbing on the first pitch of Chicke...

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Description 

This has fun climbing on finger buckets and jugs up a nice slab.

P1 is 5.4 with good gear most of the way, although some of it can be spaced out a bit. I slung some chickenheads as well. The climbing is easy and fun. You are aiming for a pod about 120' up and right of where you started. The pod/ledge has a flaring crack in the back that makes for a great belay. There is another pod to the left of this one, so make sure you're at the right one. There is a bolt on a headwall about 15' up and right of the correct pod.

P2 is 5.5 with the crux being the headwall just off the belay. Clip the bolt on your way past, and run it out on the slab above. Good gear comes shortly after. There are lots of jugs and finger buckets up more fun slab. Belay at the top of the formation from a tree.

Walk to your right, paralleling the gully until you reach the saddle between Parkview and Ranch Hand. Rap with one 60m from a tree into the gully.


Location 

On the right side of Parkview Dome, go up the hill until you come to the entrance of the corridor that is formed by the Ranch Hand formation. Chicken Dance will be directly on your left. It starts on a wavy portion of slab with several small cracks visible 15-20' up.


Protection 

SR to #3.



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