Chick Power 

This climb is much harder than V6 IMO. Consensus has placed it more in the V9 range I believe. I've climbed on it recently and it certainly isn't V6 or V7 or even V8 at this point. Breakage? Who knows. Cool climb though.

A hold has broken, and it is probably V8...and if I am not mistaken, Ric Geiman had the FA on this.

I was on this today with two different friends, both of them were on this route and they seemed to think that the route was in the V8+ or V9 range. And one of them specializes in dynos.

V8+ for sure.

I think that if you do not go full on dyno from the matched crimp ledge, then you have not done "Chick Power" if you use intermediates and whatnot, the grade lessens and should be ticked as "Chick Power variant" or something. I'm not saying its not still hard...but that dyno is damn hard.

Thoughts?

Jason, yes and no, the dyno is very hard and is classic for this climb, but at the same time, the intermediate holds are on that face. In my opinion, contrived problems are completely worthless. If the holds are there, they can be used. Also, a hold did break off of this, so the original Chick Power was not a dyno.

I am pretty sure this has always been a dyno, the crimp ledge (that you dyno from now) did break and was just a bit larger when it was considered a V7 (where no intermediates were needed due to the large nature of the jug one was throwing from). That tends to be the word on the streets anyways.

Oh, I didn't know the hold broken and became smaller, I thought something completely broke off. Yeah, I have done it both ways, and I don't think it takes away from the difficulty either way.

I might as well chime in:
I know Ric Geiman (who silently got the FAs on most everything at the Valley) did not have the FA on Chick Power. Jeff and I asked him at a comp there after we completed it.

And it's called Chick Power (not Sheik Power or anything like that), because Jeff's closest attempts always came when he brought his girlfriends there.

When Jeff and I were working Chick Power as a project, there was no other method we WANTED to do other than the big throw. Send it however you want, intermediates, crazy-high heel hooks, but you won't ever do a more fun and satisfying method than dynoing for that lip!
(and remember, you're not throwing for any chickenheads up there - it's a sweet rounded edge you catch)

As for breakage, that's gotten exaggerated over the years. The crimp you throw from was never "big", but it did crumble a bit after the original FA (most likely because it's used as a foothold, and hey... it's Ute Valley). Having done it before and after breakage, I don't notice a huge difference....

I love Ute Valley, and I LOVE this problem.

Here's a beta video from my neglected blog (apparently made when I was feeling quite old but appreciative of what really matters)
misterthan.blogspot.com/2008/09/chick-power.html

Thanks for the description, Nathan. I hadn't sent Chick Power since the early 2000-2002-ish time frame after Ric took me to Ute for the first time. The next time I went back, after moving from CO, was 2008, and I just remembered the match hold being a little more positive. Nice video btw.

Okay, so I sent the "variation" using the far right crimp yesterday after about 7 goes, and it is in no way equally as hard as the original dyno version (which I still feel to be about V9). The version where you use the crimp out right felt about V7, and although you still have to dyno, it is in no way as hard as the direct line.

Props to anyone who has sent this thing the original way, because it is burly for sure.