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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Chick on the Side 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch, '76
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 1,101
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Oct 26, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Dave just after the crux start.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About a hundred feet up the hill from the start of Long John Wall, the West Ridge Trail passes by a dark, left-leaning dihedral partially obscured by a pine tree. Look for a pin about 15 feet up and a heavily chalked, horizontal rail higher on the right wall. Chick on the Side takes this steep dihedral via liebacks and stems. Pro is good when you need it, and unlike many harder Eldo corners you can both protect and climb without facing the dilemma of choice. Unfortunately the fun ends all too soon as the dihedral spits you out onto a ledge after only a few interesting moves.

A fun diversion while it lasts, but not as satisfying as the real thing.


Protection 

Small Aliens or nuts for the business, big nuts and/or medium cams for the belay. There is one pin in the dihedral. This is a short pitch with scant but sufficient opportunities for pro.



Photos of Chick on the Side Slideshow Add Photo
Dave resting at the rail.
Dave resting at the rail.
Dave gears up for the finish line.
Dave gears up for the finish line.
Comments on Chick on the Side Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2001

I did this climb a few years ago and remember it as being awkward and hard 5.10 (but short). One star is about right.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 2, 2001
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The first few moves are crimpy, sharp, and powerful, as well as awkward. The taller you are the better. I thought that the route was fun, but quite hard at it's grade. Once the opening sequence is done, the rest of the route is much easier, so a long or dangerous fall seems unlikely.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 16, 2002

I also thought this was hard. Power trumps height. I'm 6' 3". I had the reach but not the power to hold myself in while reaching. I had to lunge for the bucket after trying various possibilities. There is plenty of pro above, but it's strenuous hanging out. You can stem out right with your hip in the corner, but it's stressful. You can escape right around the arete at the big bucket (as I did) for a rest, and you can escape again higher up (as I did).

By The Nutter
May 16, 2004

Probably easier if you're shorter like me. Great drop-knee stem stances for contemplating life and pro.

By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Feb 20, 2005

Bouldery start, as I fell onto my belayer before grabbing the jug. I suppose the taller the better. Fun dihedral!

By XOG
Apr 17, 2006

I tried to figure out a way to statically reach the jug below the pin right at the start and couldn't figure out a way to do it other than to dyno. Apart from the battle with the tree I liked it better to climb out the dihedral the whole way instead of escaping right. Very deceptive as it certainly did not look to me like the opening sequence would be the crux. I really enjoyed this route. If linked with Handcracker would it be the longest continuous climb on the W. Ridge?

By jack roberts
Oct 19, 2007

I managed to do the opening moves to the first jug statically, but it was awkward and I had to stem out left and under the overlap. I agree with the sharp and crimpy hold business, but I think 10b is a fair grade. This isn't Boulder Canyon. The tree needs to be trimmed at the top! Protection is good and the moves are interesting.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I just want to log a counter point to the earier comment.
I agree that the tree is a bit intrusive, but it's important to remember (especially as more and more people are climbing here) that we are all just visitors in the canyon and have a responsibility to its preservation. And even if we wanted to, we can't just create 'improvements' in a state park on a whim. My point: Just climb around it. We climbers create enough unintentional impact as it is without "trimming" trees because they poke our little behinds once or twice.
Great route, by the way! Having double Aliens (green-red) made it very civilized.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Had another fling with this one today, then continued with Variation to Mail Ridge (Going Postal?) and finished on the exquisite Handcracker Direct. Levin calls it the Mail Ridge Tower Link-up or something. Really fun!