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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
90 proof 
Beer Run 
Bow Flex 
Brodie Machine 
Casey's Route 
Charlie's Pillar 
Chick Flick 
Choss Eliminate 
Ditch 'em 
Double Bock 
Gunning For Gonzo 
Hefe Weissen 
Jews On Crack 
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Kitchen Sink 
Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
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Season of the Worm, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

Chick Flick 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Nov 3, 2006
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Nicely varied, Chick flick is 100 feet or so left of Lady Pillar. Begin at a right-facing corner and use the off-finger/tight hands crack to surmount the pillar (about 25 feet). Once on the pillar climb the left-facing corner and crack system for about 95 more feet. Right off the pillar the crack is off-width and gets progressively more narrow until the last 15 feet which are 0.75 camalot-sized.


0.5 camalot up to a # 5 camalot (old size). Doubles recommended from 0.5 to #3 camalots, and maybe three 0.75 camalots (I placed one at the bottom and two at the top).

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By Josh Gross
Nov 5, 2006

FA Josh Gross

By 303scott
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.