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Chick Flakey 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 945
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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"Chick Flakey". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Climb up bolt protected boulder to ledge. Long reach or magic feet to gain well chalked flake. Use positive flake then finger crack to gain footing. Follow bolt line to anchors. Fun!

Location 

Start just below large bolt protected boulder. Large boulder for viewing directly behind the start of this route. SCSG 3rd edition route 821

Protection 

7 bolts to chain anchors


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

Extremely fun route. Guidebook shows no stars, I gave it two and could easily be convinced of 3 stars. Interesting moves using flake & crack. Possibly the best route I've done so far are Sunnyside!!

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 28, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fairly cool move to gain the big flake. Much easier if you are over 7ft and pretty strong. Standard pulling will get you to the top.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

One-hit wonder, but still a lot of fun. Mostly 5.9 climbing with a well protected 5.10-ish crux.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 23, 2007

"Much easier if you are over 7ft and pretty strong"...

what are you "Gurggling about"???...


(that one F'ing killed me when you spit it out at Nomads the other day)


Cool route!!!...


EDIT:

looks JUST like the "Cosmicragsman" climbing in the "Photo by Blitzo"...
By Clayton Knudson
From: El Portal, CA
Feb 2, 2012

you can easily go around the first bolt and belay from the giant ledge between bolts one and two. I would not recommend this though, the jug/flake to get through the crux is thin and feels pretty weak. Having the belay at the bottom should help protect, or at least give them a chance to adjust,if it breaks off. Otherwise I thought it was a super fun route.
By Clif Clap
Jan 1, 2014

Really fun route. A couple of reachy moves including getting your hands on the namesake flake. Good opportunity to apply the bouldering moves you've done in the gym to a sport route.