First pitch: From the anchor stance go straight up until the bolts start heading right. Follow the stellar patina plates up the face. Move right on the ramp to the Tricky Goldy anchors to continue to the top.
Second pitch: Walk the plank on the grainy ramp until you can clip a bolt. Continue up good rock over a few roof or two on some giant huecos. Could be a bit exposed and run out, but that's why you came up here right? Move right after going over the last roof to an anchor on the slab.
Third pitch: One bolt on the slab protects a single move of 5.6 slab. Saw a guy who has done a 5.13 take tension right here. Continue up the black water streak to an anchor.
To get off, head down a slight chimney to climbers left and find the bolted rap anchors. 3 double rope rappels.
Pitch one follows the best rock up and then right on spectacular plates. You can go straight up to an anchor if you are only doing the first pitch. To continue onto the summit, follow the ramp to the right and use the Tricky Goldy anchors as the end of the first pitch.
Bolts and bolt anchors.
Chick Dead, Dog Killed It. The second pitch if you...
|By Russ Walling|
Aug 22, 2007
The name for this route was inspired by Xavier, Mick Ryans very young son. The low down: Marty Lewis the guidebook guy (Maximuspress.com) came over to Micks house to get some Bishop area information. Marty has a wild thing of a pooch named Blue.... Blue was left in the car.... Mick had a pair of Silky Chickens that were Xaviers pets. Well, as guidebook info was being passed, Blue got out a half down window and killed one of the the Silky Chickens.... Blue is like that.... anyway, Mick arranged and had a small funeral for the Silky (since he was a practice Vicar in Lango, England). Xavier for weeks afterward would just keep saying in his limited 3 year old vocabulary, to anyone who would listen, "Chick dead...dog killed it". And there you have it.....
|By Neil Rankin|
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Legend has it that Russ Walling hung it out there on the first ascent, climbing and drilling with a power drill in tow. The patina pitch is a classic and is worth the hike alone.