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DescriptionThis crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time. Getting ThereFrom the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chica Bonita Wall:
Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Ridin' the Short Buzz 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet, Grade V
Brown Eyed Girl 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
When Rats Attack 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Baby Blue Eyes 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Hot Drama Teacher 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
The Dude Abides 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet, Grade V
Bessie 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Featured Route For Chica Bonita Wall
You Take Sally 5.11d KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Chica Bonita Wall
Find the hueco about 45' right of Baby Blue Eyes. This is the left line of bolts ascending the face. Technical slab at it's best, and the hardest line at the wall....[more] Browse More Classics in KY |