Chica Bonita Wall Rock Climbing
Lay back this long corner.
This crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.
From the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chica Bonita Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chica Bonita Wall:
Featured Route For Chica Bonita Wall
Sep 6, 2015
Word of warning for those planning to use the approach info in the red river gorge south book to find this wall. We were one of three groups in an hour who showed up to Chica Bonita after having gotten terribly lost trying to follow the book's approach beta. I plan to write to the editors so that they can update the beta, but until then, the approach info on this page is pretty solid. This page says you'll see two roads on your left going uphill: the one on the left is very overgrown and looks miserable; once you start hiking up the road on the right you'll see a sign confirming that you're headed to Chica Bonita. Unfortunately this sign is currently hidden by plant life and easy to miss.