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 ADVANCED
Brinton's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berkeley T,TR 
Brinton's Corner T,TR 
Brinton's Crack T 
Brinton's Direct T,TR 
Cheap Thrills T,TR 
Chiaroscuro TR 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 
Chicago T,TR 
Evanston Township T,TR 
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 
Golf Road TR 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 
Rococo Variations T,TR 
Rubberman TR 
Sheep Thrills T,TR 
South Side T 
Stool Pigeon T 

Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Before Chiaroscuro
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Leading "The H".

Description 

The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct.

Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.

Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.

This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.

Protection 

None on Chiaroscuro. The Brinton's Direct part protects fairly well.


Comments on Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) Add Comment
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By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great linkup...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 4, 2006

Will this route complete your pyramid James?
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not really the pyramid is pretty full in that area, but I appreciate the thought...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 4, 2006

Yeah, I suppose you have that grade pretty much covered
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007

Originally know as "The H" (F9B), according to Smith and Zimmerman. It apparently predates Chiaroscuro?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 16, 2007

Doug, thanks for the clarification. From The Climbers and Hikers Guide (1970):

"The H F9B. The Highlight of your career or your ultimate horror. Start to the right of Brinton's Crack up to Hilton Ledge then left to Brinton's Direct."
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

That's some good history...
By Tradoholic
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Actually, I found this to be easier than straight up Chiroschiro. Protects better, that's for sure. The rock season has begun!
By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012

Complete the "H" with a V2 boulder start on the left side of the block at the base. This is Sandy Wegener's deviant version.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2012

Second mention of Sandy W. and the word deviant? Hmmm?