Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 5.10a
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Good page?   |
| Type: | TR |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Before Chiaroscuro |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Dec 4, 2006 |
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Leading "The H".
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Description The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct.
Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.
Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.
This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.
Protection None on Chiaroscuro. The Brinton's Direct part protects fairly well.
| Comments on Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) |
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By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| This is a great linkup... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2006
| Will this route complete your pyramid James? |
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| Not really the pyramid is pretty full in that area, but I appreciate the thought... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2006
| Yeah, I suppose you have that grade pretty much covered |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007
| Originally know as "The H" (F9B), according to Smith and Zimmerman. It apparently predates Chiaroscuro? |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 16, 2007
| Doug, thanks for the clarification. From The Climbers and Hikers Guide (1970):
"The H F9B. The Highlight of your career or your ultimate horror. Start to the right of Brinton's Crack up to Hilton Ledge then left to Brinton's Direct." |
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| That's some good history... |
By Trad Nanny
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a R
| Actually, I found this to be easier than straight up Chiroschiro. Protects better, that's for sure. The rock season has begun! |
By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012
| Complete the "H" with a V2 boulder start on the left side of the block at the base. This is Sandy Wegener's deviant version. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2012
| Second mention of Sandy W. and the word deviant? Hmmm? |
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