Fantastic new addition. Steep, varied climbing and a nice departure from the usual Squamish corner. All bolted anchors.
P1 - Easy face climbing leads to a short, steep tight hands/finger crack. 5.10-. Small ledge for the belay.
P2 - Fun chimney/slot with good gear. Felt about 5.9 tops to me. Huge belay ledge.
P3 - The money pitch. Climb the steep finger/hand crack until the little roof. While it looks like it should go up the corner, the climb tackles the short tight hand crack that angles right up the headwall. As that crack ends, step left onto a small ledge. Continue stepping left into the corner and clip a bolt. The move stepping into the corner is a bit committing with your gear down and right of you (be sure to use slings). After clipping the bolt, make a face move out of the corner and slab up past another bolt to the top. The topo shows the crux as the face move exiting the corner, but I thought the crux was the angling hand crack. A long pitch, though the final 50' is easy.
More details available at Squamish Climbing Forum
Continue right past Skywalker for about 10 minutes until you come to a nicely made belay platform just left of the trail.
Standard rack to #3
|By Aaron Nash|
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Follows the old 5.8 A1 line called "Snot" in the McLane guidebook. Fun route that has a little bit of everything.
|By Jessica T|
From: seattle, wa
Jun 20, 2014
Best way to climb this fun route (IMO) is to link pitch 1 &2. Works fine with a 60m and standard rack.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
3 days ago
Cool route, burly. Had to bail after the second pitch due to time, but looking forward to getting back and sealing the deal.
FWIW my partner and I both found the 2nd pitch chimney full-on, and harder than the first pitch. I tried to climb it straight in and didn't try many stemming or chimney moves, so this may have made it harder. Great fun though, and a bit of a novelty as chimneys seem so rare in Squish.