|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Sean Pickersgill, Bryan Kent, Joel Beckmann, Taran Ortlieb|
|Submitted By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 5, 2013|
|Comments on Chewbacca||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Aaron Nash
From: North Bend, WA
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|Follows the old 5.8 A1 line called "Snot" in the McLane guidebook. Fun route that has a little bit of everything.|
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jun 20, 2014
|Best way to climb this fun route (IMO) is to link pitch 1 &2. Works fine with a 60m and standard rack.|
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 20, 2014
Cool route, burly. Had to bail after the second pitch due to time, but looking forward to getting back and sealing the deal.
FWIW my partner and I both found the 2nd pitch chimney full-on, and harder than the first pitch. I tried to climb it straight in and didn't try many stemming or chimney moves, so this may have made it harder. Great fun though, and a bit of a novelty as chimneys seem so rare in Squish.
From: Squamish, BC
Jan 23, 2015
|I found the first pitch to be hard and the chimney pitch to be easy.|
Jun 5, 2015
|It should be noted, that the first bolt (after stepping left into the corner) is no more. There is a spot for a small cam in the corner, but not visible until you're in the corner.|
By Matt Hoffmann
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Found the route to be ok. There is definitely some fun climbing, but also some less than enjoyable moves.
P1 - Fun easy climbing to a cool crack. Move up the steeper crack. 10a-ish
P2 - Awkward squeeze chimney with pretty good jams and holds. Not very fun. 10b
P3 - Nice hand and finger crack to a block that looks like it's going to come off at some point. Up a slanting crack until you step into a corner. The step into the corner looks scary as you can't see where you are going to get gear. Commit to the easier than it looks move, step up and you can slot in a purple c4. The moves to the top are easy. 10b
Route is worth doing, but will feel a bit heady for mid 5.10 leaders.
Also, I only found one bolt on the last pitch (on the slab above all the harder movement). Route description should be updated to remove the "clip a bolt after stepping into the corner").
Nov 23, 2015
Absolutely LOVED IT. 5*****
P1-10a- Get warmed up with some easy jams and fingers
P2-10b- Climb the large flaring chimney with Bomber hands the whole way and great stemming
P3-10a/b- CA$H Money if you can place great, but sometimes spaced out gear with long runners, crazy cool block hugging, flakes, hands, epic fingers, corner transfers, and a bulge pull. more amazing finger locks top off the pitch with a relaxed slab to finish.
Overall very fun climbing. Thanks for this one!