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The Scepter
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L to R R to L Alpha
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Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder, 55'
Original:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Matt Samet, February 1998
Season: Autumn, winter, spring
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 5, 2008

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  • Guided Access Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    Chewbacca climbs the middle of the iron stone on the north face of The Scepter, about 30 feet to climber's right of the eponymous crack line. The business is in the first 25/30 feet, and I'm not really sure how to rate it. As a boulder problem, sheer terror might add a V grade or two, so it could be as "easy" as V7 or as hard as V10.

    I did Chewbacca as a ground-up boulder problem, over two days, with crashpads and spotters. At one point, I climbed the easier (V3) corner to the right as a boulder/solo, to look at the lip holds and suss the top on Chewbacca, but that was the only pre-inspection.

    The upper slab on both problems seemed to be 5.9/10 and went for another 20 or 30 feet, so don't fall up there. The wall is not radically overhanging, so I'm sure a good toprope could be arranged.


    Middle of the north face of the Scepter, above the stone bench; Chewbacca sits about 30 feet right of the 5.10 crack The Scepter.


    I used two crashpads, but the more, the merrier! Could also be safely toproped, I'm sure. I also used white wine, to calm my nerves a little.

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