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East Buttress
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Adam's Rib 
Beyond The Abyss 
Block Party 
Fun Park 
Neve Climb On 
Northern Lights 
Powder in the Sky 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood 
Slot Right Step Left 
Slot, The 
Sugar Mama 
Yellow Latex Blues 
Yorkey's Crumpet 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Bill Kees, 1978
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006
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Think you can climb any 5.9 out there? Give this one a try (but it would probably be better to let your partner have it).

Look for a relatively short, right-facing corner uphill from The Slot a ways (not the black corner which is Sugar Mama but just uphill from there). Climb face up and past a piton to gain the corner. Gather your strength and courage, and try to pretend you are Royal Robbins. Continue up the corner using thin holds and smears with very little gear. If done today, I doubt people would have a problem with calling it 5.10b R, but in 1978 with not very good footwear, this was apparently 5.9.


A single set of small cams and stoppers, one quickdraw for piton.

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