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Chequers Buttress
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Chequers Buttress 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 43'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Gosling 1962
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Jeff Beckstrand on Dec 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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On the arete- nothing but big holds left. Chequer...

Description 

Classic, British Grade HVS 5a. Follow a ramp up right, head left up through the face and then out further left to the arete. Big reach to a huge hold gets you out on the exposed corner where it's jugs all the way up: not being able to reach this hold made it a more delicate affair, but still not too bad. Top out and build an anchor amidst the grazing sheep.

Protection 

Takes standard pro. The wire protecting the long reach out right is about as solid as could possibly be conceived. Huge nut. Good route for HVS leaders.


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By Leo Hski
Mar 20, 2009

I led this when it was E1- one of my first, so I'll still regard it as such!
By Charles Moreton
Dec 2, 2011

This route is currently graded at HVS 5a (it's certainly never been 5c). I think the previous poster is confusing it with Chequers Crack nearby (a tough and somewhat notorious HVS 5c)
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Definetly no harder than 5a!, if a Canadians opinion matters.
By Leo Hski
Mar 10, 2012

E1 5b back in the day FWIW. We spent a very warm 1982 Spring Bank Holiday weekend at Froggatt- climbing all day, pints in the Chequers, and then sleeping out right below the crag. Great memories!