This area has about 15 prominent routes. 5.9 to 5.12d bolted, with some easy trad (5.7 or lower). Most routes are forty feet or less. All of the sport routes are overhanging. Many of the starts to the routes are easier boulder problems on their own. There is also plenty of bouldering, including a cave.
Only about a half-hour drive from downtown Little Rock: From I-430, take the Cantrell/Pinnacle Mountain State Park exit. Head WEST on Cantrell. After ~8 miles, take a left on Chenal Parkway. After about a half-mile, near the top of the big hill (you'll see a big church up ahead to your left), turn right onto Chenal Valley Drive. Then after driving a 1000 feet or so, take another right on to an older looking road (Gordon Rd). Head up the hill and park under the power lines. The climbing area is a 10 minute walk up the hill.
Alternate directions: from I-630 head west on Chenal parkway. Follow for 4-5 miles take left onto the second Chenal Valley Drive, just past the Episcopal Church at the top of the hill. Then take a right onto Gordon rd. Follow up hill till you see crag on right. Park under the power wires. Follow dirt road up till trail on the right.
ACCESS ISSUE. Chenal Mountain is private property. Expect to be ticketed if you park and climb there. The Arkansas Climbers Coalition is working on gaining legal access to this area. Please obey the posted "No Trespassing" signs and don't jeopardize our chances to open this crag to everyone.
By Eli Buzzell From: Traveling with AmeriCorps Apr 30, 2014