Chemotherapy  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Chris Kalous, Jonathan Thesenga, Brooke Parker Submitted By:  chris Kalous on Nov 8, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Tight hands double cracks lead to very thin climbing. Finish through steep varied climbing to a 1" layback section. The thin part is actually kinda a chimney section reminiscent of the bolt move on Desert Shield, but longer. Easy to hang out and place gear, but very difficult to move. Very cool and unusual. I had to clean it up quite a bit on the FA, so it may be dirty again. Likely not seen a 2nd ascent. Worth the effort.

Location 

It's in the book. Left side of Broken Tooth. There is (was?) a plaque.

Protection 

Tight hands to #0 TCUS. Take three or four #0s. Save some 1" for the top. I had a big cam (4.5 camalot) for a pod in the middle, but maybe not necessary.