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Broken Tooth
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YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, Jonathan Thesenga, Brooke Parker
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Nov 8, 2006
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Tight hands double cracks lead to very thin climbing. Finish through steep varied climbing to a 1" layback section. The thin part is actually kinda a chimney section reminiscent of the bolt move on Desert Shield, but longer. Easy to hang out and place gear, but very difficult to move. Very cool and unusual. I had to clean it up quite a bit on the FA, so it may be dirty again. Likely not seen a 2nd ascent. Worth the effort.


It's in the book. Left side of Broken Tooth. There is (was?) a plaque.


Tight hands to #0 TCUS. Take three or four #0s. Save some 1" for the top. I had a big cam (4.5 camalot) for a pod in the middle, but maybe not necessary.

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