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BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines
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This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan. In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line. The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined. This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals. Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux. It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming). The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us. The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison. Belay at the anchors. The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again. It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful. Belay at the tree. Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.
P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.
Draws no more than 6 per pitch, and also extra for the chain anchors. A couple piece of large gear for the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...
|By Vince Romney|
Aug 10, 2004
Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitch three as it offers some of the best climbing on the entire route. This was my first foray into 5.11 20 years ago and it still grabs my attention today. The crux bulge is always a puzzler... work those feet high!
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
i saw a guy skid down into the gully at left and break his ankle. off route i think. falling on this one aint to bad. good slabbiness.
Apr 28, 2007
Two bad 1\4" button head bolts on last pitch replaced today by mike white and jon rogers. ASCA- SS bolts and hardware was used.
Thanks to clay watson and partner for fixing lines for us.
All bolts are now good.