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My first 12a redpoint!
There are two routes that complete the sector of Wendell Spire just before the boulders on the left. Cheesedick Soiree is the right of these two.
Begin with a hard move right off the deck, or use some funky bypass traverse (cheater's option). A good option is to stick clip the first draw and take the move right off the deck. A line of cobbles and pockets leads to a final crux at 5.12 only 5 feet from the anchor. Crimpy, squarish, and polished this last key hold can be a stopper if you don't chill first because it comes following a complex and fingery section.
This is one of the best routes in this sector.
Quickdraws and a rope.
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 19, 2003
Anyone else been on this route? It's my first 12, and I ain't too sure on the rating. Where's the 12a moves? This felt tons easier than other 12s that I've attempted and been spit off. Nice rest ledges to nap on.
By Chris Cavallaro
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I broke a few holds off the start of this route a few years ago, and after getting on it again last night I still think this climb is only 12a. The bottom direct start is harder than the top crux.
By Tom Hanson
Jun 5, 2008
Chris, the photo of you shows that you are on Nob Job, not Cheesedick. The Nobjob starting moves depicted in the photo are more like hard .11 and the upper portion of Non Job is about .10+.
The true starting moves of Cheesedick are stout .12 in my opinion and the last moves to the anchor, which are really cool, are about .11.