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Oct 6, 2007
= Adam
Joined Dec 28, 2005
185 points
Oct 6, 2007
hi
weight yes, time, I guess that would depend on the route. But breaking up to belay is always the most time consuming part of a climb (no upward progress) and a longer rope gives you more options to have less belays, cut the rope for an emergency anchor, pick a better spot for a belay, ect jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Oct 6, 2007
Dude, get a 70m. or better yet twin 70's,
there are many crags where a 60m at least is needed to lower without having a second rope. When you're combining pitches to move fast you'll be happy. (besides, leading 200 ft pitches is fun, if you can avoid the rope drag.)

A guy got dropped about 30 feet off of a route in Boulder Canyon a few years ago because he was being lowered on a 50m rope from anchors that were 100 ft up.
TBlom
Joined Jun 29, 2004
340 points
Administrator
Oct 6, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledg...
Get a 70 and run pitches together and maintain upward momentum, less belays=less time on route. Ladd Raine
From Plymouth, NH
Joined Feb 21, 2006
7,202 points
Oct 7, 2007
There's a perfect rope for every situation. Sometimes that's a 50. For simulling, you just need enough to keep a few solid pieces between you and homey; the rest just weighs you down. And simulling with a 70 is a d---r---a---g.


That said, I have a Joker and it's pretty lightweight in any configuration. Started life as a 70; hadda cut it (watch out!they're, um, skinny) and now it's 175'.

Hopefully I will never be lowered off the end of my new 80m rope. This, however, might be preferable to climbing a rope-length pitch with it and then hav i ng t o si m u l.
Rob Dillon
Joined Mar 22, 2002
991 points
Oct 7, 2007
Here's a vote for the 50m, while I agree that there are times when a 60m or even a 70m is useful it comes down to where you are cimbing and your climbing style, for example in order to combine pitches into one lead you need to either be comfortable with long run-outs between gear or you will need to carry a hefty rack. If you plan on climbing the well established classic routes up and down the front range you can be sure that they were first put up with a rope shorter than 60m and so you should always be able to make it to any belay station. Longer ropes and even doubles (my personal preference for alpine routes) do give you far more options for retreat from several pitches up when the weather begins to threaten.
By the way being lowered of the end of your rope has little to do with the length of the rope and more to do with the idiot belaying- we all know the solution - the belayer should be tied in or at least put a knot in the end of the rope.
Mike D
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 5, 2007
18 points


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