Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
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Carol Kotchek at the last bolt. Her next pro will...
Rossiter calls this route "Thrill of the Chaise", but "Cheers" seems slightly more in line with the crag "naming conventions" (if there is such a thing).
Begin as for Dementia, but move right into a big, easy left facing corner (I remember going a few feet right of the line shown in the photo here).
From the left-facing corner, clip a bolt on the face to the left (this is a bit of a stretch). I find the crux is getting onto this face. Once on, climb straight up past another bolt to the top. You can place wired stoppers above the last bolt. Rossiter's topo has a two bolt anchor but I do not remember one in 1998. These would make toproping Cheers convenient.
Light rack to 2". This is not a sport route.
|Photos of Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
BETA PHOTO: Cheers takes the same start as Malign.
At the first bolt.
Above the second bolt.
|Comments on Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001
There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 14, 2002
From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead.
Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+.
|By shad O'Neel|
Sep 26, 2002
I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish.
|By Mike McKinnon|
From: Golden, CO
Sep 9, 2003
This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list.
|By Matt Burns|
Jan 10, 2004
A #7 BD stopper fits quite nicely in a small crack above the horn to provide some protection above the second bolt.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2008
Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 15, 2008
I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there.
|By Evan Deis|
From: The land of Justice
Jun 14, 2009
I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2009
Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification.
From: Sheffield, UK
Jul 19, 2011
Reachy. Good TR.