Peak 13,121', otherwise referred to as Checkered Demon is located just a mile south of the prominent Mount Humphreys. This peak's claim to fame are two couloirs: Kindergarten Gully and the peak's namesake: Checkered Demon.
Getting to Checkered Demon can be quite an ordeal, especially for those without a four-wheel drive car with decent clearance. A great description of the fairly complicated drive can be found in the book: Eastern Sierra Ice, by Robert "SP" Parker.
For those seeking a bit more adventure, from Bishop, take West Line Street to the Buttermilks Road. From here, follow the Buttermilks Road past the world famous bouldering area staying left and aiming towards Mount Humphreys. Keep heading more or less to Mount Humphreys until you can go no farther. No serious 4x4 action should have been encountered (ie. rock crawling), but it should be fairly rocky. For late spring ascents, it should be noted that on approach two small streams will be crossed and caution should be taken.
Checkered Demon is one of the infamous Sierra ice climbs, much akin to Ice Nine in the fact everyone has heard about it and not many people know where it even is, let alone have climbed it. It is quality climb that is rarely in good ice climbing shape.The route starts with a couple pitches of 45 degree snow/ice as the couloir steadily narrows and steepens. Near the top of the couloir, the couloir narrows down to three feet and steepens to about 55 degrees. From the start of narrows, a pitch or t...[more]Browse More Classics in CA