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 ADVANCED
Checkerboard Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Checkerboard Crack T 
Crystal Catch T 
Icarus T,S 
Non-Alignment T 
Number 8 Beartrap T 
Rainy Day Woman T 
Ziggie's Brother Hank T,S 
Ziggie's Day Out T 

Checkerboard Rock 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 6, 2002
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Low down on P1. Photo by Ken Parker.
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This aptly named rock face sits below Batman rock, and is easily reached via the Batman rock trail. This is a good spot to climb if you don't have a full day. The approach is approximately half that of Batman Rock, and none of the climbs to my knowledge are longer than two pitches. The rock itself is split broken vertically by a chimney in the middle and horizontally by a ledge that spans the entire length about 2/3 up. The climbing is less than vertical, and even the cracks have a slab feel.


Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. From the old Twin Owls parking lot, follow the approach trail for Batman Rock. After the trail starts to go up, start to look for a cairn on the left, which will take you to the left side of the base. Scramble down past the chimney, and back up the other side to the better routes. [When approaching the rock you will come upon the right side first.] Although the rock is 200' high, it is hard to see above the trees before you actually get there. ~40-50 minutes to approach.

Please check the closures before climbing.


Climbing Season


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Checkerboard Rock:
Checkerboard Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Ziggie's Day Out   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Checkerboard Rock

Featured Route For Checkerboard Rock
Looking for the last gear before the crystal runout. It's runout by my standards, but not very hard. The hardest climbing is up the crack to reach the ceiling below Ken.

Crystal Catch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CO : Lumpy Ridge : Checkerboard Rock
Crystal Catch is a good route to end your day at Checkerboard. A couple of hard moves low down followed by runout knob climbing at about 5.7. The runout can be eased by moving right to get gear (use very long slings). At the top of the first pitch are slings to rappel from. There is a second pitch, but I've never done it. My 1986 Scott Kimball guide says this of P2: "Proceed up sharp crystals to Surrey Ledge. Choose a groove which is second from the left and take it to the top."*My Kimball guide...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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