Check the Technique 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | S. Ohkawa, B. Rush, 16 April, 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | mountainsense on Apr 29, 2010 |
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"I'm like a neurosurgeon, operatin' with a purer ...
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Description Check the Technique was the first route to be opened on the Perseverance Wall. Climb the right-leaning, fist-to-offwidth crack along the left side of the obvious flake-pillar. From a stance atop the flake, step left onto the beautiful slab past perfect diorite knobs and four bolts to an arching arete. Lieback this feature to an alcove; a large, slung horn provides a belay. This route is dedicated to the memory of Guru--Hip-Hop pioneer and MC founder of the seminal duo, Gang Starr--who passed away just days after it was established. RIP!
Location Check the Technique rises from the narrow ledge to the looker's left--about 50 feet--of the start to the route Perseverance (5.10, K. Jameson, M. Todd, K. Gygi, 1982). It begins in a crack forming the left margin of a prominent flake, which rises from the ledge. A two-bolt rap anchor, about 25 feet to the right of the start, provides an escape; if descending with a single 60m or 70m, downclimb the 3rd class gully--two ropes (recommended) will reach the base of the 3rd class.
Protection Bring along 4" and 5" pieces--we used two each: #4, #5 BD Camalot--for the initial crack, in addition to four draws for the bolts. A finger-sized cam fits nicely above the final arete; be sure to bring some longer slings, too! Rap or lower from the anchor--beware of rope drag!
On the FA.
| The start. Don't let it intimidate you.
| Up on the slab.
| On the slab.
| BETA PHOTO: Fist to Offwidth start
| First Ascent with Shingo pulling the slab rockover...
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| Comments on Check the Technique |
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By Todd Green From: SLC, UT Apr 29, 2010 rating: 5.10-
| Strong work Mr. Yellow. Great eye and greater endurance to hand drill all those bolts ground up in a single go. Muito respeito! This route is a must do if you take the time to hike up to the wall. |
By apross Apr 30, 2010
| This is one of the best routes put up in the canyon since...........the last one Shingo put up. A good find. |
By Greg G From: SLC, UT Apr 18, 2011 rating: 5.10-
| Fun route with a multitude of techniques to check. Used a #6 camalot on the initial ow, ymmv. Easiest approach in the canyon. |
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