.

f

yer gonna die

ColeT wrote:yer gonna die

That's what I thought.

I personally would make the master point a little bit more spacious but other than that it looks good. For advice:

1 Have fun. Climbing is the most fun you'll ever have with your pants on

2 When you're out with other folks getting some guidance ask lots of questions, especially the "why" for the choices they make. If they can't tell you why, they probably don't know what they're talking about. That being said, there is a fine line between curious and annoying, but a good teacher/mentor won't be annoyed by such questions

eli poss wrote:I personally would make the master point a little bit more spacious but other than that it looks good.

Oh of course. I usually make it a little bigger, but I guess I rushed that for this photo.

Thanks!

My question is, how are you approaching the edge? Are you protected or just walking up to it? I have some suggestions but they are hard to explain without providing a picture. Otherwise from the picture I can not see a major problem.

I would put a chalk "x" on that couch - looks detached and could come if pulled on

Kev V wrote:I would put a chalk "x" on that couch - looks detached and could come if pulled on

Bruh... Do you even belay

jdereks wrote: At this point I'm still trying to figure that out. I was thinking of a way to secure myself to one of the strands with a klemheist. if I had enough rope I could leave a bunch of tail at my first point (fig 8 bight on the right side in the image), and use that as a line on which I could use the klemheist. I'm really not sure though.

Like you said have a guide or someone who knows whats up help you with this, it seems like you have the right idea but ill throw in my 2 cents.

To use the rope as a tether I would get some extra slings and some cord and use them to make those four anchor points into two master points, if that makes sense. Then you will have extra rope to use because all you'll need is two legs of rope going over the edge to make the top rope master point. All that extra rope is basically a tail now that you can tie a figure 8 on a bight and clip that to one of the master points that one of your extension legs is on, now you have a tether (use an extra carabineer for the tether's connection to the master point). If you have a grigri hook it up to your tether and get on the edge.

I don't see any major issues, assuming a couple of things:

1.) The primary placements are solid (well, with 5 placements, 2 or even 3 could be less than ideal in a pinch).

2.) The route does not wander. This setup does not self-equalize and while it is appropriate for a straight up and down toprope, I would use an equalette if the route did wander, especially if the placements are not evenly spaced and more or less at the same height/level.

I wouldn't worry too much about equalization, especially if your pieces are solid, because it is almost impossible to achieve in reality (except maybe with a quad). In a 5 point anchor, though, the load will probably be distributed between 2-4 pieces depending on how good a job you did at rigging it, and as long as your pieces are total shit then it should stand up fine to TRing because TR loads are pretty small.

Of course it is good to try to estimate the direction of pull to distribute the load among more pieces but don't sweat it if the route wanders or if the load is slightly off axis.

scienceguy288 wrote:I don't see any major issues, assuming a couple of things: 1.) The primary placements are solid (well, with 5 placements, 2 or even 3 could be less than ideal in a pinch). 2.) The route does not wander. This setup does not self-equalize and while it is appropriate for a straight up and down toprope, I would use an equalette if the route did wander, especially if the placements are not evenly spaced and more or less at the same height/level.

I would not use an equalette because of the rub on the edge. Equalette is better for a floating anchor because rock can cut through the rope.

Top rope routes in my experience don't tend to wander but if it did I would use a directional placement instead.

Comedic Biner: That anchor's got so many legs it's about to walk away.

Anchor: I'm almost to octopus status.

The FalconGuides SPI book is fantastic and covers anchors like these, getting to/from the edge safely, working safely, etc. It's worth the cash.

Hire a certified guide after you've mastered a few basics. S/he can help you jump to the next level in terms of anchors, getting into leading, etc.

Good luck man!

Oh yeah, +1 on the X on the couch. Sketcheeeeeeey!

RC

jdereks wrote:I read John Long's book, talked to people at the climbing gym, and I've been studying up on how to build top rope anchors. For convenience, let's assume that all of my anchors are solid - big trees, boulders, hexes, nuts, etc. This anchor is made using 9mm static rope, used to extend the masterpoint over an edge. The green webbing is the edge. I used a few cloves to allow for easy equalization. Does this setup make sense? Any thoughts/recommendations? And yes, I assure you I will get some hands-on guidance from and experienced person before I trust my life on my anchors.

pad the edges

its fine

thats all there is to it

;)

make sure there is no dog pee on the carpet it will melt your rope faster than battery acid

Yikes. That is really, really sketchy. Chance of death 73%.

This looks safe. Master-point could be bigger, but its safe.

In fact, it may be over kill. Ok, if those are all gear placements, and you're fairly new to place gear, then 4 placements for a top-rope anchor is ultra-safe.

If any of those is a solid tree, though, the other three are just a waste of time and energy. If the tree goes... well it is either going to tear the rest of your anchor to shreds, or rip out all the pieces (big trees are heavy). And it isn't going to go -- your piddling little fall is nothing as compared to even a moderate breeze with the leverage of the branches and leaves at the top of the tree.

If you have two anchor points and I clove one Id back up that clove hitch.

eli poss wrote: Climbing is the most fun you'll ever have with your pants on

Who ever said you have to climb with your pants on?

David Gibbs wrote:This looks safe. Master-point could be bigger, but its safe.

Yep BIGGER is always better. Especially, when it comes to NUTS.