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The North/West face of Devil's Thumb from Shadow C...
Cheating Reality has continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. The crux is in the upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aid line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).
This is located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb. Hike up via Shadow Canyon trail, and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect the seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up a steep (crux) headwall.
Marginal gear, the first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.
From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...
BETA PHOTO: From Matt Wilder's blog post on his FA: "Work...
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Jul 17, 2011
The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking.
By Tank Evans
May 29, 2015
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
This is a fun and wild route in an amazing position. I repeated this in October 2014 and put hangers on the old 1/4in bolts that Matt Wilder skipped on the FA. This makes the weird 12a section not so deadly and makes the route really fun but still spicy (R- rating). Bring ~100ft length of static to run down from the top of the tower to make an easy lower-off anchor.
By Page Weil
Dec 9, 2015
Looking for some beta on aiding this. Does this route go to the summit? What is the gear like above the angling crux seam?