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Devil's Thumb
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Cheating Reality T 
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Cheating Reality 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Matt Wilder
New Route: Yes
Season: late summer, fall (seasonal closures)
Page Views: 3,800
Submitted By: bhoran on Oct 26, 2009

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The North/West face of Devil's Thumb from Shadow C...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Cheating Reality has continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. The crux is in the upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aid line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).


    This is located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb. Hike up via Shadow Canyon trail, and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect the seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up a steep (crux) headwall.


    Marginal gear, the first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.

    Photos of Cheating Reality Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...
    From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...
    Rock Climbing Photo: From Matt Wilder's blog post on his FA: "Work...
    BETA PHOTO: From Matt Wilder's blog post on his FA: "Work...

    Comments on Cheating Reality Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Toby Butterfield
    From: Portland, OR
    Jul 17, 2011

    The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking.
    By Tank Evans
    May 29, 2015
    rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R

    This is a fun and wild route in an amazing position. I repeated this in October 2014 and put hangers on the old 1/4in bolts that Matt Wilder skipped on the FA. This makes the weird 12a section not so deadly and makes the route really fun but still spicy (R- rating). Bring ~100ft length of static to run down from the top of the tower to make an easy lower-off anchor.
    By Page Weil
    Dec 9, 2015

    Looking for some beta on aiding this. Does this route go to the summit? What is the gear like above the angling crux seam?

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