Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Chica Bonita Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Blue Eyes S 
Be My Yoko Ono T 
Bessie S 
Brown Eyed Girl S 
Cheaper Than a Movie T 
Colt 45 S 
Dude Abides, The S 
Flying The Bird S 
Hellava Caucasian S 
Hot Drama Teacher S 
I'll Take Sue S 
King Cobra S 
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 
Lets get drunk and think about it  T 
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 
Old English S 
Pocahontas Path S 
Raindancer S 
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 
Rinse and Repeat T 
She Might be a Liar S 
Size Doesn't Matter S 
Spice of Life, The T 
That's What She Said S 
When Rats Attack S 
You Take Sally S 

Cheaper Than a Movie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas - 2005
Page Views: 6,178
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Lay back this long corner.

Description 

The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.

  • The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.

Location 

Route ascends the obvious right-facing dihedral towards the center of the cliff.

Protection 

(2) sets of Camalots from #.4 - #75, (1) #1 - #4, a couple small - medium nuts could also be used.


Photos of Cheaper Than a Movie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than...
Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Rock Climbing Photo: Seconding Cheaper than a Movie with Brown Eyed Gir...
Seconding Cheaper than a Movie with Brown Eyed Gir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the climb off.
Starting the climb off.

Comments on Cheaper Than a Movie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 8, 2011

Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.

60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though!
By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best trad routes I have climbed in the Red! Super stellar, long, and great gear placements. Never used my BD #4.
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such a good line. The layback section will eat .75 cams, it's nice to take a couple along.
By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

60m rope got me down with stretch.
By BrandonC
From: Cincinnati, OH
Feb 28, 2015

Led this route two times. Both times, it was with a different rope and both were unchopped 60m. It literally uses every foot, but a 60 will get you down without issue from my experience. if you are okeydokey with runouts on easy terrain(5.5/6 slab?) , you can skip the 4. But, the top guarding the chains is often wet if it has rained at all recently. It doesn't make it much more difficult when wet, but it is a bit unsettling.
By artem
Sep 9, 2015

Easy route, fun section at the bottom! Stopped placing gear halfway up and just ran it out the remainder of the way on the 5.4/5.5 slab. Gives you a fun sense of adventure.

Don't waste your time bringing a #4, if you want to lessen the runout plug a nut or a hand/fist sized cam before moving out right and up.


Awesome route, 60m got me down fine (being lowered and rappelling both)

5.7 would be a more appropriate grade, but depending on your crack technique it could end up feeling harder.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!