Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Matt Tackett, Jason Haas - 2005 |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Nov 19, 2007 |
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Cheaper Than A Movie
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Description The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.
- The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.
Location Route ascends the obvious right-facing dihedral towards the center of the cliff.
Protection (2) sets of Camalots from #.4 - #75, (1) #1 - #4, a couple small - medium nuts could also be used.
Cheaper Than A Movie
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Cheaper Than A Movie
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Cheaper Than A Movie
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Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
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Lay back this long corner.
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Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than a Mo...
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| Comments on Cheaper Than a Movie |
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By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Nov 8, 2011
| Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.
60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though! |
By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8
| One of the best trad routes I have climbed in the Red! Super stellar, long, and great gear placements. Never used my BD #4. |
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Such a good line. The layback section will eat .75 cams, it's nice to take a couple along. |
By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+
| 60m rope got me down with stretch. |
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