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Cheap Wine Wall

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Boston 
Dome Driver 
Hartford 
Kracken, The 
MD 20/20 
Newark 
Ripple 
TJ Swan 

Cheap Wine Wall 


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Location: 30.5088, -98.8176 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall

Description 

The Cheap Wine Wall is the second to last wall along the Backside of Main Dome, and encompasses the area between Newark (left side) and Ripple (far right). It is home to nine quality routes, all between 5.7 and 5.9+. The three climbs on the right side of the wall are single pitch bolted slabs while the lines on the left side tend to be longer (up to two pitches) with mixed protection (bolts and gear). What differentiates the Cheap Wine Wall from the areas to its left and right are the horizontal overlaps and ledges that are found across the wall. The first feature is a large overlap the arcs up and right from Boston to T.J Swan. Bear Can Ally is the ledge that starts above Dome Driver and continues up and right to the next wall. Broadway Ledge is above Bear Can Ally. Trees along all of these features make for good landmarks. Ripple (5.9+) and Dome Driver (5.7) are classics and not to be missed.


Getting There 

To reach the Cheap Wine Wall, follow the Echo Canyon trail through the Main Dome – Little Dome saddle, down the draw, and through the boulders at the bottom. There is a well used hiking trail that leads out from the boulders, loops to the right (northeast), and continues around the entire dome. Follow the trail past the marker for the blue climbers’ trail to the yellow trail. Turn right and head towards the wall. When you reach the wall, turn right again and you will be near the starts for Boston and Hartford (look for the notch in the overlap about 30 feet up the wall). Turning left will take you to the start of Mark of the Beast on the Devil’s Slide. You can also reach the Cheap Wine Wall from anywhere along the Backside by simply following the trail at the base of the wall.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cheap Wine Wall:
TJ Swan   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 100'   
Hartford   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Dome Driver   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches   
MD 20/20   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Ripple   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Cheap Wine Wall

Featured Route For Cheap Wine Wall
The Kracken

The Kracken 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Cheap Wine Wall
You can not rap or lower off either pitch of this climb with a single 60 Meter rope.The Kracken is named for James Crump's internet handle. Crump is responsible for much of the parks early development and many of it's first ascents.This route was bolted on lead in 2008 in old school traditional style. To my knowledge this is the last line at Erock to be bolted from the ground up. Since then it has become a very popular line. Presumably because it is quite reasonably protected by Erock standards....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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By Superclimber
Jan 21, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

ATTENTION: There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk off, take two ropes, or find the rap bolts in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 Meter rope will make it from the designated News Wall rappel anchors.

The News Wall anchors are intended as a designated rap station for the Backside. They do not protect any specific climb, nor are they intended for you to hang a rope on and spend the day occupying. These anchors are there specifically as a descent route for parties climbing the Backside.

There are no sport clips anywhere in the park. Basic anchor building skills are pretty much required to climb at Enchanted Rock.