|As for all Hellgate areas|
Park your car off of the main canyon road.
This is a fantastic two pitch route that is easily combined on one long pitch. The gear is there and solid in the dark grey compact rock and the bolts were drilled on lead in bold style. The advantage of a route protected like this is that you can hang out and scope out the moves between bolts before casting off. The upper pitch has really cool huge edge climbing and requires some nice body tension. One of my favorite climbs.
This starts near the bottom of Tower 1 in the dark compact rock. Its 20-30 feet around the corner from the main cave. You can see the crack and the dihedral with the bolts. The upper pitch is on the white limestone but in a dark streak.
medium to hand sized cams and nuts, (I just brought my standard rack but you don't need much of it) lots and lots of long runners and quickdraws. Please don't forget your helmet.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 14, 2007
this is a great route but for me much harder and scarier than the 11a's up the hill.
|By Allen Sanderson|
Sep 1, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13
I would agree that it is harder than 5.11a. We also found the route to be flithy dirty. No way would it be worth the stars in the condition we found it. YUK!!
|By jonathan knight|
Jul 30, 2010
I pulled a bunch of choss off of the second pitch last night. It only took some hand pulling and prying with a nut tool, and it is still a little dirty so bring a brush. I also replaced the tat on the one bolt holding the rap ring on the second pitch anchor. Cool route, it just needs a little more love. I lowered off with a 75m from the top and had about 10' of rope leftover.