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Cheap Lipstick 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Kennedy
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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"Cheap Lipstick". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is described in the Mayr guide as 5.9* - Rock quality is suspect, 1st bolt is ridiculously low and to in my opinion didn't have a single .9 move on it. Saying it's .7 is generous.

It does however have sunny exposure and no approach. Bring a ropebag as the belay is dusty and dirty.

Location 

South facing wall - furthest route on the left (while facing the wall) starts in a dirty narrow slot in front of a hook bush. First bolt is 4' from the ground and painted red.

Mayr guide - route 819

Protection 

6 bolts to ring anchors (which share with "power puff")


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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 26, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought this was a fun route and didn't have any issue with the quality of rock. Maybe most of the loose rock is now gone?
By Chris Asencio
From: Hesperia, CA
Aug 29, 2011

This climb was fun when I lead to the left of bolts. It seemed more a 5.8 on left side. Right side was much easier, 5.6-5.7
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is ok, but it suffers from being overbolted and it ends with an unnecessary traverse to the anchor which makes cleaning awkward. (It should have just ended at the last bolt.) It is soft for 5.9, especially with respect to "Fun in the Sun" on the same wall. On the plus side, it seems like much of the looseness has cleaned up over the past 9 years, and while still a little crumbly, overall it's pretty solid.

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