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Lower Capitalist Crag
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Cheap Labor 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Casey Bernal and Darren Mabe, 8/03
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,201
Submitted By: Casey Bernal on Aug 31, 2003
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Description 

This climb is on the Lower Capitalist area between Lunchmoney and Mounty. The first two bolts are obvious at a bulge 15 feet above the main ledge. Place the bomber #7 stopper at the back of the small ledge just above the second bolt and place the yellow Alien just before the fourth bolt. Similar to Lunchmoney but with slightly harder and shorter cruxes.


Protection 

Route Status as of 5/04: 8 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. A couple mid and long slings are nice to reduce wandering rope drag.

Retro-Optional Gear: (#7 stopper or green Alien between bolts 2&3) AND (#9 or #10 stopper or yellow or red Alien at 4th bolt).



Photos of Cheap Labor Slideshow Add Photo
Alex unclipping in the crux, 6-5-09.
BETA PHOTO: Alex unclipping in the crux, 6-5-09.
Comments on Cheap Labor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2003

Gear Alert

I don't think this route will get many ascents since the prevailing ethic in Clear Creek does not include gear requirements.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 6, 2003

Dear ac, popular does not mean better.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The first gear placement mentioned is not necessary; however, the second placement is nice to have. You do a couple thin moves above the yellow alien to gain the bolt. A fall would be disasterous. Fun locks at the top (wish there were more)!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A few more notes on the route description:

Above the first two bolts, the climbing is not hard getting onto the ledge where you can clip the 3rd bolt. The small cam placement 10 feet below the 4th bolt is pretty handy to avoid an ugly fall.

The traverse moves onto the low angle stance at 4th bolt are brilliant (5.9). The crack (crux) leading past the last two bolts is a quick little test of finger-tip crack technique. I bolted this finish a while ago, but took me and Casey's collaboration to develop the unique start. We completed it on Labor Day weekend 2003.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
May 20, 2004

Recently, according to the logic of the first AC who commented on this route, someone added a bolt next to the bomber cam placement between the third and fourth bolts. Now if you run it out between the second and third bolts, it is a pure sport climb.

By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Jun 16, 2004

This route is nice addition to the lower wall of Capitalist Crag. Now, there are two moderates next to each other that allow extra mileage for your pleasure. No need for gear on the run out discussed above; it is minimal and on moderate terrain. Both routes are either 9+ or 10a. You can decide. The fifth clip is a bit of a reach but you can step down and make the traverse easier on lower footholds. A couple of locks later bring you to the belay.

By Doug Redosh
Jul 10, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

A bit harder than Lunch Money. Leo Paik and I TR'ed this line in 10/02 and called it "Change". However, kudos to Darren for equipping the route, and others in this area, that does not get the road noise that is ubiquitous elsewhere in CCC.

By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Nice line - very continuous - great fun.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Nice thoughtful line. A single small TCR was useful between clips 2 and 3. Nothing is really needed further up. This is a very nice addition.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 31, 2004

Cheap Labor has a decidedly different feel from Lunchmoney, and very interesting moves.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

A sustained and interesting pitch. The crux crack near the top of the pitch is pumpy; get the sequence right the first time!

By Walldahl
From: Golden, CO
Aug 21, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I felt the crux section was just a tad harder than the crux section of Lunchmoney but less sustained. I also felt that this climb deserves 3 stars...Great! I liked it so much, I pulled the rope and climbed it a second time. Fun!

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 8, 2008

Greetings, we climbed this route on Sunday July 6th. Very fun, but I am confused regarding info on trad pro needed? Has there been additional bolts placed? Anyway, everyone in our party felt comfortable with existing fixed gear. Mr. Olsen is sooo right! Get the sequence correct or downclimb! Peace.

By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Maybe I was off route, but I felt the crux was some thin crimps and digits up and left just before the traverse and mantle to the final fingerlock headwall.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 6, 2009

Shawn-
I think there are two ways to do the moves past the 5th bolt. 1) You can go up and slightly left, utilizing the micro crimps and balancy footwork. This seems to be the most popular way to go. Or 2) you can traverse straight right under the bolt till you are below the headwall crack-crux-thingy and then go straight up. This way seems to have better holds though it is much less obvious. I have done it both ways many times and certainly prefer #2 (please don't take this out of context...).

Is there such thing as off route?

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Maybe I was having a really off day. I'm pretty solid 11, and this didn't feel anything like low 10 to anyone I climbed it with.