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Chateau Vert 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1996
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jun 23, 2008
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Just to the right of the mega-classic Psychatomic there is a right-angling crack that eventually fades to blocky, enjoyable face climbing. Start by clipping a single bolt from a large boulder and fire through a series of laybacks and a few hand-jams with good gear options. Place a couple great pieces at the end of the crack and then run for the chains through a puzzling section of face climbing. Mantle a mini ledge to awkwardly clip the chains. This sustained and aesthetic route is well worth bringing in your rack for.


One bolt protects the move off of the boulder. Bring a light rack up to 1 inch. Two bolt anchor.

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