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Chasm Crack 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: Noah Doherty on Oct 15, 2013

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The Line

Description 

Climb the gorgeous fingercrack from a sit start. The crux comes down low, the second and third move. From the start on a left hand pinch and a finger jam/sidepull, pull hard with a drop knee to a two knuckle ring lock or wierd finger jam. Hang off this for a few painful seconds and slowly cross to another two finger jam higher up. Don't let it pop, and slap to a decent jug sloper deep in the crack. This move isn't too hard, and once you do it, you are in. Cross to the lie back jug and top out on a slightly technical face.

Location 

The last boulder in the set. Head into the chasm made by a huge slab and an overhang. Climb the obvious finger crack.

Protection 

We had 2 pads, with plenty of spotters to move them around. The nature of this climb makes it a little scary, as there is a slab behind you to hit and slide down into the chasm. Tape is nice, unless you are Mike Thompson.


Photos of Chasm Crack Slideshow Add Photo
I forget his name (Ken? Kevin?), but he was a really  <br />good crack climber. Did the whole crack first go, but didn't top out by choice.
I forget his name (Ken? Kevin?), but he was a real...

Comments on Chasm Crack Add Comment
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By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 15, 2013

Listed in the underground guidebook as a black diamond, so I guess V6 felt right. If you are from out west and climb splitter finger cracks all the time, it is probably V4.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 20, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Worth seeking out! Where else in Pway can you climb an overhanging finger crack, followed by a high, technical topout? My fingers didn't fit the crack too well which changed the bottom sequence and made the top section all about crimping.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 12, 2014
rating: V6 7A

This climb is really good and very unique for Pway. While some crack technique is useful, this climb is still very bouldery and powerful, and it's likely that being an Indian Creek crusher wouldn't be all that helpful since it doesn't really climb that way.

With some traffic, this should clean up really nicely. I don't think the landing is that bad at all. If you are strong enough to make it through the bottom (which is easy to protect), the top should feel pretty easy. I climbed it alone with two pads.

On a side note, I found the fingerlock to be pretty painful. But, I also didn't use any tape.