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The Swamp Boulders
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Chasm Crack 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Noah Doherty on Oct 15, 2013
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The Line

Description 

Climb the gorgeous fingercrack from a sit start. The crux comes down low, the second and third move. From the start on a left hand pinch and a finger jam/sidepull, pull hard with a drop knee to a two knuckle ring lock or wierd finger jam. Hang off this for a few painful seconds and slowly cross to another two finger jam higher up. Don't let it pop, and slap to a decent jug sloper deep in the crack. This move isn't too hard, and once you do it, you are in. Cross to the lie back jug and top out on a slightly technical face.


Location 

The last boulder in the set. Head into the chasm made by a huge slab and an overhang. Climb the obvious finger crack.


Protection 

We had 2 pads, with plenty of spotters to move them around. The nature of this climb makes it a little scary, as there is a slab behind you to hit and slide down into the chasm. Tape is nice, unless you are Mike Thompson.



Photos of Chasm Crack Slideshow Add Photo
I forget his name (Ken? Kevin?), but he was a really  <br />good crack climber. Did the whole crack first go, but didn't top out by choice.
I forget his name (Ken? Kevin?), but he was a real...
Comments on Chasm Crack Add Comment
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By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 15, 2013

Listed in the underground guidebook as a black diamond, so I guess V6 felt right. If you are from out west and climb splitter finger cracks all the time, it is probably V4.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 20, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Worth seeking out! Where else in Pway can you climb an overhanging finger crack, followed by a high, technical topout? My fingers didn't fit the crack too well which changed the bottom sequence and made the top section all about crimping.