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 ADVANCED
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasing Sticks S 
Choss Temple Pilots S 
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 
Double Down S 
Dutch Oven S 
Fix, The S 
Frictionary S,TR 
Hood Surfing In Socks S 
Killer Fish Taco S 
Monkey Bob S,TR 
Platinum Curl S 
South Crack T,TR 
Touch, The T,S 
Vitamin V S 
Wavy Gravy S 

Chasing Sticks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 2000
Page Views: 2,817
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Jeremy reaches the top of Chasing Sticks.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a particularly poorly bolted route on the South Face of Surprising Crag - 3 routes right of Choss Temple Pilots and just right of the dihedral/offwidth. Bolt placement (first bolt 15-20 feet up a slab and a looong reach from a stance, with the second bolt 2 feet above it) makes an othewise good route lame.

Protection 

Six draws.


Photos of Chasing Sticks Slideshow Add Photo
The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag. <br />Routes are right of The Fix and left of Monkey Bob. <br /> <br />The easiest start to Chasing Sticks climbs in from the left and steps right to clip the first bolt.
BETA PHOTO: The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag. Routes ar...
Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
Me contemplating the crux moves. Move to the wide crack to the left for a lieback. The crack will end right at the next bolt.
Me contemplating the crux moves. Move to the wide ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2014
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Beside the bolts, I thought this climb was pretty fun. Loved the mixed holds and the crack near the chains.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 26, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As others have said, the climbing is really fun, but the equipper was on crack.
By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack.
By Kevin Cossel
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The distance before the first bolt can be protected with a small to medium stopper. Other than that a good climb with a very fun layback crack near the top.
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2009

Fun climb, and a good work out if you work up the second and third bolt as a compression. Also, on the last crack I stemmed off the chimney to the left, which may be off route.

Loved the runout at the start.
By Alan Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

In my opinion, the first bolt was not too exposed. I would have liked it down several feet, but it did not have me extremely nervous. Just my two cents... otherwise it was a very fun climb.
By dseltzer
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011

A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted.
By She's Such a B
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 12, 2014

It is a little run out to the first bolt, but at least you have some rope in the system by the time you clip it?

This route can be made more difficult if you jam the left crack (not the dihedral).
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

About a dozen different ways to do this route and all of them fun and exciting. Great warm-up for the area!
By Simon Perkins
Sep 14, 2014

Seemed harder than the supposedly 5.9+ climb to its right. The layback at the top is fairly committing if you go that way, though a slightly easier alternative is to head left and make use of the big crack in the corner.