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Chasin' the Wind 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Cal Swoager 1985
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007

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Photo: Jay Young

Description 

Climb the finger crack to a set of shuts. About 1/2 way up this crack, it gets harder, but only for about 10 ft. The majority of the climb is 5.10. The route climbs in a similar fashion to many of the NRG 11's, as there are bomber finger locks between reachy thin sections. This is a route you should not pass up if you are in the area and this is your grade. There are direct starts to reach the ledge: Nazz, Nazz (5.12c sport) or Gone With the Wind (5.12a trad).

Access to this route from the ledge requires climbing a first pitch. For more information on the different short routes to take to access the ledge from which this route starts, reference the Williams guidebook.

Location 

Locate a large ledge about 20 ft off the ground, just before a large overhang if you are heading upstream.

Protection 

The main crack protects primarily with small nuts. A few of the larger sized BD micronuts are helpful. Some small cams (aliens) are also helpful. Bolted anchor.


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chasin' the wind-late fall 2011
chasin' the wind-late fall 2011

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