|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Mike Artz, Cal Swoager 1985|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007|
|Comments on Chasin' the Wind||Add Comment|
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By Jeff McLeod
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I can't think of many pitches anywhere that exceed this one in terms of all-around quality -- spectacular position (view of the entire gorge), amazing movement, flawless stone.
The 5.9 approach pitch is PG13 and 5.9++++++
Rack: a good selection of small to medium cams, and micronuts are a must. I would also recommend bringing a #1 (and maybe 0.75?) and #3 camalot; the #3 is very nice to put in after the first crux to build peace of mind.
There are three distinct cruxes, the first might be hard 5.10 but the other two are 5.11. This climb definitely didn't feel like "mostly 5.10." The gear is excellent if you can keep your shit together to get it in. Did I mention micronuts?