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Hawk's Nest
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Charybdis 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,127
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Tommy Deutchler leading Charybdis

Description 

Charybdis is a fine route located about 15 feet east of the giant boulder at the base of Coronary. The route starts out on challenging holds and remains challenging all the way up. Follow the small slanting crack up and right, though you may not use the crack much during your ascent as it is very thin. There is a slight overhang near the top, but the holds are large and copious. I thought the route was very reachy, but with a few runs on it I'm sure the sequences could be honed to make it more graceful. This is a fun, challenging 5.7 which, due to its continuous difficulty, could be considered harder than many 5.7's at the Lake.


Protection 

Small nuts on your rack, big nuts to get the nerve to lead this thing.



Photos of Charybdis Slideshow Add Photo
Kris on Charybdis, just before it started pouring rain.
Kris on Charybdis, just before it started pouring ...
Charybdis follows the thin crack, though you might not find much use of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Charybdis follows the thin crack, though you might...
Just past the crux
Just past the crux
Clip that brassy! Classic DL
Clip that brassy! Classic DL
Jon Nash climbing this fun route, Sept 09.
Jon Nash climbing this fun route, Sept 09.
Don't forget that little steep section at the top!
Don't forget that little steep section at the top!
Another shot of Jon Nash on Charybdis.  Sept 09.
Another shot of Jon Nash on Charybdis. Sept 09.
Charybdis Trad left rope
Charybdis Trad left rope
Comments on Charybdis Add Comment
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 8, 2009

The piton that used to be 15 feet up, where the route cuts up the right slanting crack, is no longer there.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2009

I don't know if it is where the old one was but there's a new piton on this route, about where Doug says.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I climbed this on Sunday on lead and almost pooped my pants. I tweaked. Perhaps I as off route but there was not a lot of protection on this route. The moves were not difficult but getting my head wrapped around the run out I had created was challenging. I wasn't going to trust that piton either.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 29, 2010

Ha. Someone replaced the old pin on this route with a new one? Probably not a bad idea. The gear placements at the start of this route will test your "experience level" at placing natural gear and especially at placing natural gear at Devil's Lake. It's there though and my philosophy is to place as much as possible low on this route even though any one piece will not be bomber. Too bad you didn't have a smoother time climbing this route Andy but I think with mileage on more and varied DL routes you will feel more comfortable perhaps the next time you lead Charybdis.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 30, 2010

On the other hand, having a "tweaker" experience once in a while whilst lead climbing is a big part of why some folks like to climb.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

i climbed this last weekend...it truly was a great route...all of the finger locks and lay back moves made it stellar...the line is not overly direct and placing pro was a little tricky but i felt it protected well (micro's) ...big gear not necessary, did use a 1 and .75 at top to build belay

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun lead for the grade. Definitely a little spice thrown in for good measure.

By Jeff VS
May 28, 2014

Charybdis was my first DL lead back in 1970 and is still one of my favorite climbs to do. It is a real "classic" and, top roped or lead, shouldn't be missed.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 21, 2014

I wouldn't want to on onsight this thing if 5.7 was my lead limit. It's heady, and the moves themselves feel a bit committing down low given the gear. I "retro-flashed" it yesterday after not having been on it in 5 years, and it definitely had my attention. So fun, and very alpine feeling up top.