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Elevation: 1,837 ft
GPS: 34.7235, -98.74518
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Shared By: J C Wilks on May 8, 2009
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The topography of Charon's Gardens can be a complex maze with small outcrops which can obscure features that are relatively near. There are good to fair trails leading to the major destinations. These areas include Tiny Bubbles, Pear & Apple, Treasure Cove, Elk Slabs and Crab Eyes, but even then, once you are close there can be a bit of route finding to get to the base of the actual climbs.

There are several areas with no maintained trail leading to them. Pick up a USGS map, a condensed version of the Refuge from the Visitor Center or print out a satellite image to aid you in finding these places on and around Mt. Lincoln, West Horizon Pass, Sunset Peak/Big Whiskey and other more obscure crags. The advantage of these areas is that you will avoid the crowds at the Narrows and Mt Scott.

The original 1980 book by Duane Raleigh and Bill Thomas 'Southern Exposure - A Climber's Guide to Oklahoma' simply states: "CHARON'S GARDENS - To the west of Elk Mt. is a rugged wilderness area known as Charons Gardens. Throughout this area there are many excellent one pitch and shorter crack climbs. These can be difficult to locate and no listing of the specific routes will be given.

Climbing is year 'round but you will want to avoid the roasting south facing cliffs in summer and the shady north facing cliffs in winter. Encounters with wildlife can be sudden. Watch out especially for rattle snakes, elk and rogue bison bulls.

There is a designated camping section within Charon's Gardens. You must backpack in a couple of miles and the camping is primitive. Check at the Visitor Center for permits.

Getting There Suggest change

Residing on the far southwestern end of the Refuge, there are two main parking lots for this large area and a few pull-outs in between. Drive west on 49 to the north, Sunset Pool Parking which provides access to most of the major climbing areas. Off of the Indiahoma Rd is the south parking lot at Treasure Lake. This is the best point to start in to areas such as Panther Canyon, West Horizon Pass and Mt Lincoln. It's also a good way in to Elk Slabs. This lot has had high incidences of break-ins from time to time so keep your valuables with you or hidden if you must leave them in the vehicle.

461 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Charon's Gardens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 4
The Wave
Boulder
V6 7A
 16
The Oklahoma Panhandler
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 106
Great Expectations
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 29
Crack a Lo Lo
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
The Claw
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 40
Power Series
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 6
Baptists on the Rampage
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 24
Slime of the Century
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 30
Ra
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Serpentine
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 52
Rap Bolters from Hell
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Lost My Religion
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 13
Moby Dick
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Desperate Reality
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
500 Roses
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Wave Pear & Apple (B… > Smoking Section
 4
V6 7A Boulder
The Oklahoma Panhandler Crab Eyes > Crab Eyes Bouldering
 16
V6 7A Boulder
Great Expectations Elk Slabs
 106
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Crack a Lo Lo Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 29
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Claw Crab Eyes > E Face
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Power Series Crab Eyes > E Face
 40
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Baptists on the Rampage Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Sport, TR
Slime of the Century Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 24
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Ra Crab Eyes > E Face
 30
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Serpentine Hidden Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Rap Bolters from Hell Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lost My Religion Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Moby Dick Crab Eyes > W Face
 13
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Desperate Reality Desperate Dome (Despe…
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
500 Roses Lost Dome Region > Lost Dome Main Area
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Charon's Gardens »

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