Slappin' Em Down:
AKA: Slappin' Em Down
Deceptive, Dainty, Devious, Delightful, Daring, Devastating?
No matter what word you use to describe the start of Charm, the outcome is always the same: "that was hard!"
Charm begins under a steep and over-hanging block. Campus, heel-hook, scum, or scrub!! Do whatever it takes to pull the opening moves of this route, a sequence may be there, but where?
Climb up to more secure ground and clip another bolt. I like to think the route starts here as another crux more suitable to the grade awaits. Continue on quality rock over crimps, and solid edges through steepening terrain to a cryptic and dynamic bulge. Hang in there and enjoy the long and fun finish.
Where to Slap Em Down:
Charm lies on the lookers far most right side of the Stone Garden. Its most easily identified by its large and low-lying, protruding roof. This route is directly right of Married to the Obsessed
How to Slap Em Down:
Quick draws, shoulder pads, and a hockey mask. Seven black bolts to an anchor.
|By Glenn Ritter|
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Tricky and low percentage start for the grade, and another tricky (11a ish ???) section higher up, but over all a good route.