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Conroy's Castle
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Charlotte's Web 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on May 13, 2007
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Observing the crux

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Description 

A popular climb, but not only because it's one of the easier climbs in the area. The first pitch (5.9) is a little less than vertical and requires careful sequence planning making it an enjoyable puzzle. The second pitch (5.7) is a lower angle affair with great holds.


Location 

Conroy's Castle is really the southern end of the Forgotten Wall, so walking south along the base of the Forgotten Wall, you've arrived at Conroy's Castle when the climbing ceases to look like 5.11 or 5.12, and the cliff is curving around to face south. Charlotte's Web is left of the climb Clear Cut which is distinguished by having a fun-looking roof about 10m up.


Protection 

8 or 9 quickdraws if doing it in two pitches, about 15 to link the pitches (which I would recommend). Bolted first and second pitch anchors. From the top of the second pitch double ropes would be required to rappel all the way to the ground, so use the first belay station as an intermediate rappel if on one rope.



Photos of Charlotte's Web Slideshow Add Photo
Alli getting through the thin crux of P1.
Alli getting through the thin crux of P1.
The second pitch link up
The second pitch link up
Pitch 2, I think
Pitch 2, I think
Comments on Charlotte's Web Add Comment
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By ScottH
May 16, 2007

"An enjoyable puzzle" = "tricky and spooky" in the margin of my guidebook.

By Scott Clifford
From: Tallahassee, FL
Oct 3, 2007

Don't muck up the third or so clip. I've seen multiple upside-down falls result from this, but they were OK.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 13, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I only needed 13 draws to link the pitches, but I skipped the eye-level bolt on the ground and I didn't clip the intermediate anchor. A long runner on the last bolt before the first anchor would help with rope drag.
Unexpected run-out on the first pitch, uncharacteristic for Chek. The crux is a delightful and dainty section, fun to figure out. Wish the rest of the climb was as interesting.

By Adrian Lazar
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I'm of medium height and I found the 4th to 5th bolt is the tricky, thought provoking section. Maybe it's easier for somebody taller, > 5'8''.

By Mark van Eijk
Jul 21, 2013

Not my cup of tea. Since I am not setting my own routes I hesitate to criticize the work of others, but I found the bolting here "cryptic" at best. A bolt at seven feet leads to significant runouts above. For me, the crux occurred well above the previous (4th?) bolt and I consistently found that the easiest moves were well protected while tricky, insecure moves happened in dangerous, high positions. Potentially a very worthwhile route for those with more of a stomach for such things, the crux is very thoughtful and engaging, but it's not on my shortlist to repeat.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 28, 2013

agreed on the spaced bolting- probably be solid at the grade, especially if this is your first climb in the area. I found it very engaging for 5.9- it had my attention the whole way.

i linked pitches- 15 draws plus anchor kit is what you'll want. its probably 50m from the base to the top of the 2nd pitch (not the 37 the book says)- a long, enjoyable pitch if you link them.